So, Pete, exactly who is "hugh," and how fast is he?

Ok, I’ll keep this as brief as possible as, which isn’t easy.  

If you are the modern style of photographer who shoots birds-in-flight or action sports, all at 20 to 30 fps, blasting off 1,000 frames in a day then you want a 24MP Z6iii or 46MP Z8/Z9. If as I suspect, you’re closer to my more deliberate style of shooting then the higher end bodies could be overkill.  I assume the Z6iii is as big as you’d want to go.

The choice perhaps becomes Z6, Z6ii, Zf or Z6iii. 

The Z6 and Z6ii have very similar specs, the main difference being the ii has both CFexpress and SD cards.  AF ability is very similar but is regarded as behind the current tech.  AF accuracy is superb, it’s subject detection (SD) and tracking which is lacking, they are workable but not as good as with recent cameras.  They also have EVF blackout or slideshow effects at high fps.  These cameras use the Expeed 6 processor.  

The Zf and Z6iii use the much more capable Expeed 7 processor.  The Zf in some respects is a Z6/Z6ii with the Expeed 7 processor….but of course it’s also a retro style body so a bit marmite.  The Zf resolves the dated functionality that the Z6/Z6ii exhibit, SD and tracking are excellent, IBIS is 2 to 3 stops better, low light AF is better along with some other details.  

The Z6iii is in a modern ergonomic shape, it’s a downscaled Z8 in someways.  It does what the Zf does plus higher fps, more buttons, possibly it can focus one stop darker than the Zf (ie pitch black).  Zf uses SD cards and micro SD whereas Z6iii uses CFexpress and SD.

There’s a hint that the Expeed 7 bodies have slightly more advance jpg processing.

Overall IQ from the sensors is pretty much the same between all these cameras.

The Z6iii is the best of the bunch but will you use the higher functionality?  If so, try to wait 6 months for prices to drop.

The Zf may be enough for you but is the retro style / ergonomics ok for you?

The Z6/Z6ii make good economic sense, personally the lack of decent tracking is a downer but my Z7ii is the same and I manage.

There’s much more to say but handling the bodies would help you answer some questions around ergonomics.  

When you’re next up seeing your mum we could meet so you could check out my Zf and Z7ii, the Z7ii differs from the Z6ii only in terms of the sensor.

Hi Jules, getting your hands on some Z cameras will be very useful for you.  I’ll add some of my personal views which I’ll say again are based around a more deliberate way of shooting vs a lot of people today…one view is that opinions on camera forums (like the hifi ones) are from gear-heads who are obsessive.  That no doubt includes myself…

Firstly…moving to Nikon mirrorless involves rethinking focus modes, you need to try out new modes which work differently to DSLRs.

I have retro and modern bodies, I switch between the two with no issues.

The retro body loses a function button and the joystick but it gains dials for ISO, Shutter Speed and Exposure Comp.  I did like the joystick anyway… The retro body can operated in the same manner as the modern body, it has 95% the same controls.  With both bodies you’ll need to dip into the i-menu with its 12 user definable shortcuts.  You also have MyMenu, which you’ll be familiar with.

I mostly shoot Aperture Priority but I also use Manual and Shutter Priority.  On the retro body I tend to use manual ISO as it’s so easy to adjust.  Also the dedicated exposure comp dial is very convenient- but so is “easy compensation” on the modern body.  I could use Manual mode more but I have the same control for much of my shooting by being in AP.

The modern body has 3 user modes you can save and and recall.  I found these useful on safari but otherwise I don’t use them.

I wouldn’t want to choose between modern and retro, both work for me.  It’s more about handling than the controls TBH.  I also wouldn’t want to have to choose between 24MP and 46MP….hence I have Zf and Z7ii.

Edit: I should have mentioned that the Zf b&w switch is unexpectedly very handy.  It doesn’t do anything you can’t do in the i-menu but scrolling through picture controls is long-winded, the switch makes b&w so much more instantly accessible.  Of course if you don’t shoot jpg it’s no use. I shoot RAW + JPG and mostly use the jpgs, resorting to RAW when I need more powerful editing, especially for better detail retrieval from shadows or changing White Balance.

Edit 2: that Voightlander 35mm f2 APO lens I linked is being discontinued, not because it’s not good but to free up manufacturing capacity.  

I want to give more complete information about how manual focusing works with Nikon MILCs.  I’ve researched the details more and had a play with some of my manual lenses to check what really happens.

Nikon DSLRs (possibly in common with Canon) show focus confirmation when focus is achieved with a manual (non-chipped/non-electronic) lens.  This is driven by the PDAF sensors.

Nikon in their wisdom decided to not show focus confirmation for non-chipped lenses with their mirrorless bodies.  The assumption is that they wanted people to buy new lenses or at least reduce the functionality of competing lenses.  There is an adapter that spoofs electrical signals such that focus confirmation works, though this adapter has its own issues.  Chipped manual lenses such as those from Voigtlander are fully functional in terms of focus confirmation.

The process for non-chipped lenses involves using the zoom function to visually ensure focus is accurate at your the focal point.  Focus peaking is available too but it’s often not sufficiently accurate.  For chipped lenses the focus box turns green so no zooming is required.

For any manual lens with the four latest Expeed 7 based bodies you can if you wish select subject detection (people, animals, cars, planes), this can be applied to the whole sensor, a large part of it, or a small part of it - your choice.  You then compose your picture, the camera detects eg an eye - you don’t need to point a focus box at the eye, the camera finds it for you and places a small box on the eye.  With a non-chipped manual lens you then hit zoom, this takes you directly to the focus box, you set your focus and take the photo.  With a chipped manual lens the small box over the eye turns green when you’ve achieved focus (no zooming required)….this is so very easy.  The frustrating thing is that this could be done for non-chipped lenses but Nikon restricts it in firmware.

Interesting article on the declining sales of digital cameras.

No surprises when you look at the imaging tech in some of the latest smartphones. The likes of Nikon & Fuji will concentrate on the camera enthusiasts and pros who want the higher end gear ...

www.digitalcameraworld.com/news/japan-just-sounded-the-death-knell-for-digital-camera-sales-but-is-anyone-listening

The piece suggests that the manufacturers might be about to enter a 'death spiral'. I would argue that this started some time ago and that their current pricing policies is strong evidence for this - they're chasing the same annual profit returns from an ever diminishing customer base. It's a self-fulfilling prophesy.

I frequent a photography forum where the usual arguments ensue regarding things like retro styled cameras. The arguments centre around these cameras being niche products. At some point I usually remind people that all stand-alone cameras are now the niche products as almost everyone simply uses their phones.

There are some amazing Nikon DLSR discounts around right now.

Nikon D780 Body amzn.eu/d/0h1AmHlR

The Kodak story is more nuanced and sad than that even.  They pioneered the work on digital cameras and had products that could be (and later were) launched.  However the CEO and board decided to suppress the technology to ‘defend’ the sale of film.  And then someone else launched digital cameras and the rest is history.  Greedy and stupid, not just stupid!