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Post by MartinT on Nov 26, 2023 9:39:34 GMT
The Citroen GT - you have never seen a Citroen like this.
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Post by rfan8312 on Jan 5, 2024 18:49:02 GMT
Stunning vehicle. People pay millions for a piece of art to hang on their wall. Thats like a piece that you can drive.
Wow really not sure what to make of this or where to go from here regarding my 2007 Mazda3 turbo with 145k miles.
Check engine light came on Tuesday night. I plugged in my OBD reader to the port and got code P0117 (Coolant Temperature Sensor - 1 circuit low). And temp guage showed overheating.
So I dropped the car off to the mechanic. Next day they said it ended up being the coolant temperature sensor. It was spinning in its connector circuit. Ok I get that. So they replaced it plus they changed the oil and filled up all fluids.
An hour later check engine light came back on, no hot air blowing out. So I went home. In the morning I went to doctors office but now had hot air again and not overheating and check engine light disappeared but went back to the mechanic. They showed me that my coolant ran out. So they refilled the coolant. No problem. They were helpful. And I drove off.
An hour later check engine light is on, same code, no hot air and coolant reservoir is low and radiator is hot. But I don't see coolant on the ground.
So back the mechanic to have 4 guys in a shop look at it again but cant bring it there until Monday night.
Not sure what's going on.
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Post by MartinT on Jan 5, 2024 20:34:35 GMT
Blown head gasket? Would cause burning off of the coolant and general overheating. Losing water at that rate, though, I'd expect it to run rough.
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Post by rfan8312 on Jan 6, 2024 2:24:38 GMT
I sure hope not. I thought if it was the head gasket I'd see more exhaust coming out of the back but not seeing that. And slso the temperature gauge after showing full overheating then goes back all the way to dead cold but the radiator feels very hot.
Wow hope this thing is ok.
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Post by MartinT on Jan 6, 2024 8:52:20 GMT
The gauge is measuring coolant temperature. Once the coolant has gone, it'll read cold but the engine will be red hot.
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Post by MartinT on Jan 9, 2024 9:10:25 GMT
I'm having my 110k service done today and Abbey Motorsport are additionally installing a Fluidampr damped crank pulley, Killer-B oil pickup pipe, Cusco oil baffle, Mishimoto magnetic sump plug as well as performing the usual service. These mods are intended to remove the possibility of oil starvation, maintain high oil pressure, remove any metal shards and encourage the engine to run even more smoothly (which a flat-four does inherently, but more is better). Since the engine has done high miles, these preventative measures are intended to extend the life to, hopefully, over 200k miles despite being boosted (supercharger).
I say all this because it's not just hi-fi that can be modded to improve on the stock component. Cars can be, too, and in discussion with Abbey I have carefully selected mods for reliability since I already have the performance and handling that I like. So many people treat cars like a consumable - lease one for three years and then get rid. I'm treating my BRZ with love and attention as they are out of production and I cannot think of a model that I would prefer to have.
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Post by MartinT on Jan 9, 2024 14:23:40 GMT
This is the original oil pickup showing some sump seal caught from when the engine was manufactured. I'm told this is a pretty decent example but you don't want any of it getting into a crankshaft bearing. It affects most modern engines but the FA20 is especially sensitive to it.  |
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Post by rfan8312 on Jan 9, 2024 14:25:08 GMT
Wow. Yup. If you were to lose this vehicle to improper care you'd be losing this BRZ experience so you are cradling this thing with every care that is possible to give.
Actually I'm that way with my Mazda3 though to a lesser extent because I dont have the means at this time to throw every possible preventative measure at it at this time.
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Post by MartinT on Jan 12, 2024 6:48:14 GMT
Well, this proved to merit its price and claims. The Fluidampr replacement fluid-filled crank pulley has taken an already smooth flat-four engine (flat-four engines have perfect secondary balance without the use of balancer shafts, with only a small rocking couple due to the offset cylinders) and made it even smoother with lower noise. I love it!  If this carries on, I should start a "tweaking your car" thread  |
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Post by rfan8312 on Jan 12, 2024 8:12:03 GMT
You should start that thread, Martin. Would be good to hear what that beast vehicle's progress through this life is like and which tweaks add to its performance.
And you wouldn't be getting any sentences in there from me like this one: I just took my car from one mechanic shop directly to another. Did a lot of walking today. The first mechanic can't figure out what is the problem.
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Post by MartinT on Jan 12, 2024 9:12:30 GMT
Hah - I still get puzzled looks from people asking me why I would modify my car instead of buying the car I want. My response of "for the same reasons I modify my hi-fi system" doesn't really help them  |
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Post by MikeMusic on Jan 12, 2024 10:59:42 GMT
Make the best even better
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Post by nicholas on Jan 12, 2024 13:41:07 GMT
Hah - I still get puzzled looks from people asking me why I would modify my car instead of buying the car I want. My response of "for the same reasons I modify my hi-fi system" doesn't really help them Simply tell them "Better is the enemy of good"... |
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Post by julesd68 on Jan 12, 2024 15:19:20 GMT
I have this strange issue with my Mazda 3 that I thought had gone away but it's back again.
If the engine is completely cold and I start the car, when I bring my foot up on the clutch, the car will race away quite sharply without me touching the accelerator at all and I then have to control speed with the brake. I don't get the problem if either I wait for the revs to drop after starting the car, or, the engine is already warm when I start it.
Last time a Mazda tech looked at the car they couldn't replicate the issue as the engine was warm, so am not sure what to do. I have an MOT booked in when they can look at it but sure they will say the same again.
Can anyone suggest what the problem could be?
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Post by rfan8312 on Jan 12, 2024 15:50:12 GMT
My car is in shop at this moment. Jules. I have a mechanic suggesting it may actually be the computer screwing up the timing of functions.
I also have bizarre electrical issues like guage cluster lights never shutting off even after the car is shut off for the night. And sometimes radio/lights on buttons not Illuminating until a half hour after driving and also rpm's revving from 1 to 2 continously while warming up the car in morning.
I'm told that the mazda3's have brittle and finicky wiring so sensors that are plugged into their "pigtails" behave strangely.
I'm sorry that I don't have more definitive more concrete answers but I've been having conversations all week now with mechanics and have been finding out about peculiarities with Mazda 3 vehicles.
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Post by julesd68 on Jan 12, 2024 16:24:49 GMT
Ah, thanks for that Robert! I will forward on that suggestion to the dealership. It's frustrating as my car is just perfect in every other way ... Really hope you get to sort yours out.
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Post by MikeMusic on Jan 12, 2024 16:30:18 GMT
Can you safely unplug the battery overnight to let the whatever it is die away ?
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Post by MartinT on Jan 12, 2024 17:59:06 GMT
If the engine is completely cold and I start the car, when I bring my foot up on the clutch, the car will race away quite sharply without me touching the accelerator at all and I then have to control speed with the brake. I don't get the problem if either I wait for the revs to drop after starting the car, or, the engine is already warm when I start it. It sounds like the cold start process (higher revs and richer mixture until it warms up) has gone a bit enthusiastic, or is taking too long to settle as it detects warm-up. The effect is exactly like pressing on the accelerator. Is the coolant level ok? |
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Post by julesd68 on Jan 13, 2024 11:44:24 GMT
Thanks Martin.
I've no idea about the coolant level but car was serviced recently and should be fine.
I'll see what happens next week!
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Post by rfan8312 on Jan 13, 2024 12:40:03 GMT
That's what I deal with all day now is the coolant level. I was advised to always just top it up to the line on the coolant reservoir. In my passenger legroom area I have two containers of coolant and piece of cardboard to put under the car when I park it to look for signs of drips. Though I barely use the car I've been borrowing my mother's car for a week now.
Yesterday the 2nd mechanic gave up looking for why my car overheats after 25 minutes of driving. First time in my life I'm being told by auto repair shops that they can't do it. I called every towing company I know to ask who they use as a mechanic. So now im going to a wiring specialist on Tuesday.
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