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Post by MartinT on Jun 12, 2020 21:37:10 GMT
I did wonder about that. I must reboot and see what happens. I would hope the Bluetooth service would start to enable the keyboard and mouse. I've confirmed that the bluetooth subsystem runs fine on Windows startup. No problem doing Ctrl-Alt-Del and entering my PIN.
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simon
Rank: Duo
Posts: 71
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Post by simon on Jun 12, 2020 23:30:15 GMT
I did wonder about that. I must reboot and see what happens. I would hope the Bluetooth service would start to enable the keyboard and mouse. I've confirmed that the bluetooth subsystem runs fine on Windows startup. No problem doing Ctrl-Alt-Del and entering my PIN. Martin, is that at the windows login screen? My corporate laptop is encrypted with bitlock which has a pin challenge, before Windows boots.
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Post by MartinT on Jun 12, 2020 23:33:52 GMT
Oh I see, yes Bitlocker unlocking happens before Windows boot. I take it the laptop doesn't have a TPM (Trusted Platform Module) to store the BitLocker decrypt code for you?
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simon
Rank: Duo
Posts: 71
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Post by simon on Jun 13, 2020 0:05:38 GMT
I'd be very surprised if it didn't have a TPM module, I'd say they just enforce the additional pin.
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Post by MartinT on Jun 13, 2020 0:40:11 GMT
Pointless, really. Bitlocker is designed to protect the drive from being removed from the machine and read by other devices. TPM ensures it stays in the machine. The drive is already encrypted and TPM prevents its removal.
The OS password/PIN prevents penetration into the data by those means.
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Post by MartinT on Jun 13, 2020 15:53:15 GMT
For reasons that I'm not entirely clear about, I seem to type more accurately on this short-throw membrane keyboard than I did on my previous clicky Logitech keyboard. It makes a satisfying 'thunk', too. The mouse is very smooth on high-DPI setting and also has a low clunk rather than a click sound. It remains to be seen how long the charge lasts but I like the integration with Windows that shows me their state of charge.
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Post by Slinger on Jun 21, 2020 18:30:29 GMT
Yet another "Security Intelligence Update" but still no biggie. The tension is unbearable.
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Post by MartinT on Jun 21, 2020 21:17:56 GMT
I'm still waiting for it on my Surface, if that makes you feel any better.
It's going to depend on the vendors reworking their drivers.
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Post by Slinger on Jun 21, 2020 22:27:55 GMT
I'm still waiting for it on my Surface, if that makes you feel any better. It's going to depend on the vendors reworking their drivers. It does. Thank you.
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Post by Tim on Jul 9, 2020 19:49:50 GMT
I've got quite a lot of storage, but I do work with some huge graphics and music files. SSD
480 GB for OS 240 GB Photoshop Scratch Disk Internal SATA2 TB x3 USB/External
2TB x2 4TB x1 You might consider it a bit "excessive," though, Martin. Hmm, excessive you say? I've got north of 24TB over various machines, only 4TB on the NAS mind you and my main daily driver machine has 500GB NVMe, 1TB SATA SSD, 1 x 2TB and 1 x 4TB mechanical HDD. Then there's all the other computers . . . hard drives in draws and my USB stick farm Anyhoots, I digress . . . I just pulled what was my main machine out of storage, where it's been since 2016 when I went to China. It didn't POST so after a process of elimination I deduced it was either the motherboard or the CPU. It's rare for a CPU to go down if you don't overclock it and cool it correctly, so I took a punt and ordered a new motherboard, as I couldn't test the CPU. After putting it on the bench (dining room table) and reassembling it, success it was the MB and all worked fine, so I slapped on a new SSD and set about installing Windows. Now here's the bit I found interesting, as I didn't expect it after changing a MB and both hard drives. I installed Windows 10 Pro and it automatically activated with a digital licence on the components remaining (I never put a key in during installation), which were the CPU and 2 x 8GB sticks of RAM. I expected to have to put a licence key in after a MB and HDD change, but it seems Windows uses the CPU, or maybe a percentage snapshot, so if enough remains they re-licence you. I'm going to test that theory out by changing the RAM too and trying a new install, where I only use the CPU from my original Windows 10 machine from 2016. I think that's pretty cool TBH, as farting around with licence keys was always a pain and Microsoft seem to be quite relaxed about their W10 licensing now, which is also good. What isn't good however is all the bloatware in W10 these days, but running a quick script can strip all that out. There are some really good ones on GitHub, which I also find intriguing as their parent organisation is Microsoft. Maybe it's an info resource for them, where they can see what people are doing to change Windows installs and use that information for development? The first thing I do to Windows after I install it is change it . . . quite a bit too, somewhat of a deep clean
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Post by MartinT on Jul 9, 2020 20:07:15 GMT
I've got 14.5PB of cloud storage at work.
Beat that...
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Post by Tim on Jul 9, 2020 20:21:29 GMT
That is rather a lot - I thought mine was nerdy, but that's super nerdy
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Post by Slinger on Jul 9, 2020 20:25:54 GMT
Oh, bugger, I forgot about my two 2TB Raid 1 NAS boxes. So does that count as another 4GB, or 8GB? I wonder if this is the explanation for your new Windoze installation automatically authorising itself.
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Post by Tim on Jul 9, 2020 21:02:59 GMT
Yeah Slinger, but this was a new OEM motherboard so it wouldn't be in the BIOS and I had made significant changes to the original hardware, so that info in your post was my previous understanding, which is why I was surprised as the hardware was different . . . if that makes sense? I suspect it's the CPU architecture they use for DIY builds, as I would doubt RAM would be used for hardware activation. It makes sense to use the CPU though, as that in my experience is the most reliable element, unless you pour liquid nitrogen over it and clock it to 8GHz! I always click the 'I don't have a product key link' during an install and it was quite awhile before I actually plugged an Ethernet cable in (I never have that in during an install either), as I didn't want them fooking with it, as it was build 1511 (current is 2004). Of course it might actually be a rouse and if you click that link, then they activate you anyway? I can test that out too, as I've just bought another new AMD CPU and a new motherboard and RAM should be here in a few days. So I'll install without a key and see what happens if I don't do anything else, as it will all be new hardware. Nerdy I know, but it kind of goes against what they say as I have changed hardware, yet I'm still activated?
As an aside by the way, there's a bug in Ver. 2004 where the inbuilt Defragment/Optimisation software is optimising SSD drives automatically, which is the last thing you need to do to an SSD as it reduces it's longevity.
I'm still on version 1909 on my main desktop machine and I'll be sticking with that for the foreseeable. Loads more if you Google it
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Post by Slinger on Jul 9, 2020 21:14:40 GMT
What I meant was, Windows knows your authorisation because you've authorised it once already. If you're reinstalling it, it will "call home" during that process, so if the key is buried in the installation media then perhaps there is some sort of matching process taking place over your internet connection as the key is not retrievable from your bios.
Does that make any sense?
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Post by Tim on Jul 9, 2020 21:26:04 GMT
It does and it doesn't as I wasn't 'reinstalling' it on the same machine and that CPU had not been powered up since March 2016 and the installation media was downloaded from the Rufus portal 4 days ago, as I wanted an early version of W10 (version 1511), so the installation media was totally different too, as would be my IP address. So the only common factors are the CPU and RAM as it was a new SSD too.
Maybe I'm not explaining right but I have had a few gins! It's a puzzle for sure
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Post by Slinger on Jul 9, 2020 21:30:51 GMT
Ah, no, I've got you now, I think. I thought you were reinstalling from the same media you used originally. Not an effin' clue in that case.
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Post by Tim on Jul 9, 2020 21:32:57 GMT
Not an effin' clue in that case. Haha, me neither . . . but I'm on a mission now to find out!
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Post by MartinT on Jul 10, 2020 7:14:55 GMT
As an aside by the way, there's a bug in Ver. 2004 where the inbuilt Defragment/Optimisation software is optimising SSD drives automatically, which is the last thing you need to do to an SSD as it reduces it's longevity. That's naughty - optimise on an SSD should only run TRIM, which is designed to release deleted blocks and generally tidy up. I'll check my machine upstairs which is on 2004.
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Post by MartinT on Jul 10, 2020 7:16:07 GMT
It does and it doesn't as I wasn't 'reinstalling' it on the same machine and that CPU had not been powered up since March 2016 and the installation media was downloaded from the Rufus portal 4 days ago, as I wanted an early version of W10 (version 1511), so the installation media was totally different too, as would be my IP address. So the only common factors are the CPU and RAM as it was a new SSD too. The BIOS has a signature which I believe they use, too.
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