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Post by stellabagpuss on Sept 26, 2023 13:12:13 GMT
Thanks Tony for the information. Just done some research, they all broadcast on the same frequency, but use a unique code,so it can be ldentfied by the receiver.
lnteresting...
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Post by stellabagpuss on Oct 14, 2023 10:13:32 GMT
Just thought l'd give a quick update,as l had a few PMs asking on my progress of MartinT tungsten mod, and movement of the R26 power supplies, into a separate box.
Truth is,l now have all the parts to continue, however what l am lacking is physical time.
You probably heard me mentioning my building work in past posts, and although it's complete, l am at the stage of furniture assembly and various other tasks that need attention to.
What l can say... if we could only bottle time 🤣
On a more positive note, the new LB seems to be looking like it will be something special. My only wish...while we are waiting on the new LB,is for them follow up on there promise of a firmware/software update, it's now been months, and at one stage,we where told it would be days.
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Post by HD Music & Test on Oct 14, 2023 10:28:37 GMT
Arh yes time the most precious of commidities without question.
Maybe Jerry can help out with one of his astrophysical formulae to help here Damien
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Post by stellabagpuss on Oct 16, 2023 15:25:32 GMT
So managed to get a couple of hours in today. First up,MartinT Tungsten cube mod on the R26. Now l also have to give credit to Jake on Headfi forum,as he has actually modded his R26,and l believe MartinT may have influenced Jake.... Its a small world! l also took the chance to play with Damping on the FGA chip. So firstly, after a bit of back and forth, l settled on some EMF absorber ,followed my 2 x small squares of Sorbathane on the FGA,this cleaned things up a little, l guess slightly more analogue. Even though l use the LB clock, l also put a small piece of Sorbathane on the R26 crystal, certainly won't hurt. Lastly the Tungsten cube, l purchased 2 sizes 15mm and 20mm. Although MartinT is getting good results with the 20mm, MartinT runs a X26. Jake had actually tried both 15mm and 20mm, with his preference being 15mm, and stating the 20mm being a backward step. l can confirm Jakes findings,as that was actually my findings, with the 15mm in place, something quite magical happens,the image and stereo field open up further,bass has more impact,and more resolution...Its pretty bizzare turn of events. Interesting and l can't explain why, the 20mm almost reverted back to the sound in standard without a cube, it seem to smoother and add glare to the sound. Early days as l am expecting thing to improve as things bed in. l have added a image to display the modded bits, look for the Red marks on image. Damien Gustard R26 Damping & Tungsten Mod by Damien Read, on Flickr
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Post by MartinT on Oct 16, 2023 18:36:12 GMT
Jake's a good chap. Did you see his 'tower of tungsten', LOL!
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Post by stellabagpuss on Oct 28, 2023 20:34:39 GMT
Start of Gustard R26 Mod by Damien Read, on Flickr What's that mess...? Well that's me without music.... Or should l say the beginning of the rehousing of the Gustard R26 transformers, my first task, drilling mounting holes ,so l can attach the new enclosure. Will report more as it develops. Well as you may know, l also lurk on Head Fi forum,although TAS is my home. l stumbled across a DIY GROUND BOX thread, which has clocked up over 50 pages,and yes it was a mammoth Read to catch up. By chance main ground box guru "cdacosta" seems to stumbled upon a new tweek,that seems very promising, using Rochelle Salt,by added a small amount into a plastic wrap,and rolling around cables, it brings a lowering of noise,and very positive results, although l haven't tried this yet (lt's on route) ,l suggested it could be used internally inside components, well it didn't take long, and another forum member has simply applied RochelleSalt to various bits inside his NAD unit,with very good results. Have a read.. www.head-fi.org/threads/diy-ground-box-thread.968372/page-58I am looking forward to giving this a go, as it's pretty cheap. Graphene...thats so last year 🤣
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Post by MartinT on Oct 28, 2023 22:42:22 GMT
Attaboy, still experimenting! Good luck with the transformer re-house.
Thanks for the Head-Fi link, I'll have a good read.
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Post by stellabagpuss on Oct 29, 2023 20:55:28 GMT
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Post by MartinT on Oct 29, 2023 21:33:51 GMT
What kind of cabling and multicore connector are you planning to use to link the two?
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Post by stellabagpuss on Oct 29, 2023 22:00:47 GMT
l may be lucky and not have to extend any wires at all,they put to much cable inside the R26. lf l do have to extend,l will hard wire using silver solder,using a similar copperTeflon coated wire. l am also removing voltage selector,joining the center wires of transformers,that used for the 110v line, so a lot of reduction of connectors,plus moving the transformers away, should yield an improvement. l only know, as a friend has actually tried this,and is very happy.
l will give more details as l go along.
Damien
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atoz
Rank: Trio
Posts: 147
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Post by atoz on Oct 30, 2023 7:11:13 GMT
Good start Damien, well done. A couple of pics of the wiring changes, 110v wiring bypass etc, would be nice and help a few of us who might also take this mod on. Good luck
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Post by stellabagpuss on Oct 30, 2023 7:55:09 GMT
TBH The 110v is a complete removal job of AC input, small board and small screws. lts so molded in with plastic,it's a bit of a fit once design, so with that in mind, l totally removed it, also l didn't want anyone trying to connect to the power input that does nothing!
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Post by stellabagpuss on Oct 30, 2023 8:18:55 GMT
20231025_105425 by Damien Read, on Flickr Quick photo of the side of the new enclosure, the side you won't see! Larger holes are for psu cables, smaller holes are for attaching the new enclosure to the R26. Naturally you will have to create a mirror image, on the R26 side panel and drill holes in the same place. l used M6 x 20mm socket bolts with M6 washers,and M6 nyloc nuts. In the end l only used the two lower holes,as this did the job nicely, and less holes to align up, and in my case,l had drifted on one of the holes.l would recommend drilling a 6.5mm or 7mm hole,as it will give you more margin for error. Another discovery, due to case that l am using, l had to place two additional washers in between both units and create a 2mm gap,as it stopped me from fitting the new enclosures front plate. In regards to the psu holes,l just drilled 12mm holes, which is more than enough to feed the cables from the enclosures. Hope you can follow, what l have written Damien
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Post by stellabagpuss on Oct 30, 2023 19:14:37 GMT
So... We get to the business side of things. As you can see in the photo below, you cut the center black and red wire,allowing enough length to have some of the insulation stripped back,wrap wires together,solder wire together, and insulate solder. You will be left with positive Red,and Neutral Black, the earth is easily recognisable by colour. You do this for both transformers. It's pretty straightforward, you will end up connecting both transformer red wires together to your live brown wire input,or IEC power in connector,and both Black transformers to your Blue Neutral wire,or IEC power inputs. 110v bypass by Damien Read, on Flickr Next needs a little more pre planing... What do you notice about this photo below? Not quite long enough by Damien Read, on Flickr Sadly the wires to the board are to short, really a case of close but no cigar. This means l will have to make a short patch lead, but for the purpose the exercise.... l Will proceed and pretend they fit. I can't stress enough this point, each transformer has four wires, it's important to colour code the wires, as we will be soldering direct to the pcb board and you don't want to get the order wrong, l used insulation tape, before cutting the wires,and took a photo for reference. Another point, the psu connectors sit back to backing the R26 Board, put a small pen mark on the connector block as a reminder of direction. Colour Code your wiring by Damien Read, on Flickr Mark on board psu connector by Damien Read, on Flickr After this you drill a 5mm hole to new enclosure housing and clamp the transformers in place. On recent test,it was discovered that the removal of the R26 Zinc plated bolt holding the transformer down was having a slight negative effect, my solution is to use Nylon Fixings, part numbers and supplier and on the packaging, bolt length is M5 x 55mm Transformer Fixings by Damien Read, on Flickr Lastly a picture of where l am at, not to bad... Just waiting on my additional wire to make my patch lead. Again thanks for reading, and l hope this will inspire yourself. l'll be back,with update once we are at the final stage Damien Nearly there by Damien Read, on Flickr
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atoz
Rank: Trio
Posts: 147
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Post by atoz on Oct 30, 2023 20:00:50 GMT
Thanks for the very informative update Damien, appreciate the time you've taken to write this. Your write up ...with pics will be of benefit to those thinking of doing this mod, myself included.
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Post by stellabagpuss on Oct 30, 2023 20:04:59 GMT
Your Welcome..... Glad your enjoying.
Damien
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Post by MartinT on Oct 30, 2023 20:28:10 GMT
Even if you colour code everything, do not do this without a DVM (Digital Voltmeter) to verify before soldering. Measuring is easy, repairing a blown-up main board is not.
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atoz
Rank: Trio
Posts: 147
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Post by atoz on Oct 30, 2023 20:36:24 GMT
Oh I am Damien. I do hope you hear the efforts of your work ...even if it's small.
Damien, what ps cable connection are you using?
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Post by stellabagpuss on Oct 30, 2023 20:38:49 GMT
Even if you colour code everything, do not do this without a DVM (Digital Voltmeter) to verify before soldering. Measuring is easy, repairing a blown-up main board is not. Goes without saying... Check and double check...
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Post by MikeMusic on Oct 31, 2023 10:05:55 GMT
Even if you colour code everything, do not do this without a DVM (Digital Voltmeter) to verify before soldering. Measuring is easy, repairing a blown-up main board is not. Goes without saying... Check and double check... Measure twice Cut once
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