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Post by jandl100 on Jan 16, 2017 20:29:41 GMT
blah blah blah - the usual crap from you know where.
It was a pleasant thread up till now. I've had my say having tried one, I'll leave you guys to it.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2017 20:35:40 GMT
blah blah blah - the usual crap from you know where. It was a pleasant thread up till now. I've had my say having tried one, I'll leave you guys to it. Agreed, Jerry. You deny "Saddam Hussein" the oxygen of publicity only for "Tariq Aziz" to pop up on cue like a "whack-a-mole" to peddle the party line as his apologist and sock puppet. I'll say no more.
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Post by julesd68 on Jan 16, 2017 21:16:13 GMT
I must be misunderstanding you here - are you suggesting that people who use kettle leads are laughable and amusing? Err no! Could you explain what you mean by those comments as I don't get it at all ...
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Post by ChrisB on Jan 16, 2017 21:58:12 GMT
P.S. The 'experiment' is perfectly viable and important to this claim of the £90 one being better. Please credit me with some independent intelligence here, as the suggestion is a valid one. If having NO FUSE gives one kind of sonic flavour and inserting the fuse causes that character to change, then the fuse is doing something and this needs proper investigation, surely? If you feel it's irrelevant, as my suggestion of ferrites seems to be, then fine, it's up to you. Better than what? Nothing, or a different fuse? I think it is irrelevant because most people will not bypass a fuse. They might change one for another, as Gary and Jerry and others have done, in which case, surely the point is that they will want to find the best fuse? I've been using ferrite clamps for about 25 years, Dave. The 'bringing arguments' post was addressed to everyone, not just you.
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Post by dsjr on Jan 16, 2017 22:34:02 GMT
Better than what is effectively no fuse, in Gaz's case a copper bar which at 20mm is effectively no fuse. As it changes the sound reportedly, it must be doing something and if it's doing something to the supply line, this must be measurable surely?
I'm spoiling your fun, sorry...
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2017 22:51:12 GMT
My hearing isn't up to detecting the difference that a fuse would make, and anyway it's unlikely to work for my system because I'm starting with such sub-standard equipment - everyone knows you should never put lipstick on a pig! I haven't changed anything for over a year at least, I haven't even bought any new music recently as I've run out of space and have plenty to keep me entertained.
It was clearly worthwhile doing some upgrades. Servicing the turntable and getting a new cartridge probably were worthwhile as the old Linn cartridge was very worn out and really struggled on certain records. Other purchases make a clear difference - record cleaning machine and new copies of battered vinyl for example. Getting a wall-mounted shelf made a very big difference due to my bouncy flooring, that was a no-brainer.
Ensuring that the speakers were correctly positioned was also worthwhile (within the limits of the listening room) and free. Getting the tracking and cartridge weight setup correctly and making sure the turntable shelf was completely level also made a difference and was also at no cost.
All of those things should be done before you consider new fuses IMO.
Other purchases I will admit were less clear cut - a high quality power adapter with mains filter, new Khan top plate for the LP12, new phono stage. I think they made some difference but it wasn't night and day and they weren't cheap. I would do the same again however and certainly don't feel ripped-off.
My CD player has had very little use because I prefer the process of playing vinyl, so maybe that was money wasted, but it was pre-owned and should last a few years. The last cd player (a cheap one) broke and was a case of you get what you pay for.
I don't have the inclination to play around with leads, fuses, power cables and whatnot - I'm happy with what I've got and it's pretty good, particularly when I compare it to other supposedly superior systems which sound far worse to me. That's not to say I think people who do experiment with fuses are stupid or wrong - far from it. If they get pleasure from doing it and it's their money then more power to their elbow - hifi is the type of hobby that should be enjoyed in this way and it's a great reason to listen to more music.
£90 does seem a lot to pay for a fuse, but then you can easily pay that for a good bottle of whisky and the whisky wouldn't last as long.
P.S. I don't normally spend £90 on whisky - I took delivery of a 10 year-old Laphroaig yesterday that I bought for £20 from Amazon Prime - now that is a bargain!
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Post by MartinT on Jan 16, 2017 23:05:04 GMT
Look. The 'best' fuse is no fuse at all. You're not saying anything new, Dave. We've been here already and no-one is disagreeing with that statement. However, many of us either a) don't want to lose the safety in having fuses in the first place or b) don't want to invalidate our house insurance. Yes, you can. That's what we do when we're listening to music, after all. I've spent a couple of hundred quid on specialist fuses. What about it?
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Post by gazjam on Jan 17, 2017 0:48:15 GMT
Better than what is effectively no fuse, in Gaz's case a copper bar which at 20mm is effectively no fuse. As it changes the sound reportedly, it must be doing something and if it's doing something to the supply line, this must be measurable surely? I'm spoiling your fun, sorry... Hi Dave, Sensible respectful discussion always a good thing, thanks. Trying to think about my (subjective) results , if I'm reading the discussion correctly the assumption seems to hinge on the copper bar being a 100% conductor (i.e. 'No fuse'?)...so obviously better? Couple of thoughts... There certainly wasn't a lot in it for me when I compared the two, but I did have a preference for the fuse, but as I said elsewhere more of a preference than an absolute better/worse. Maybe on paper it should have been a 'KO'...but given than things dont happen on paper usually could there be other factors? I'd expected the bar to sound better so genuinely no expectation bias from me. Scratching my head for possible reasons - what about the copper bar itself? It had been sitting in a bucket for ages and wasn't in great shape, even after cleaning it. Trying to offer up an idea...in reality, could the fact that the bar wasn't in perfect condition have made it ACTUALLY act as more of a fuse than the 'no fuse' idea on paper? I know that just because it's copper doesn't mean its necessarily a 100% perfect conductor? www.properzi.com/literature/category/4-copper-rod-and-wire?download=10:factors-affecting-electrical-conductivity-of-cuIf not a perfect conductor, with impurities and resistive factors...could this have an audible effect? Someone has also said somewhere that the fuse 'could' give better results than a copper bar, depending on how it was used and where it was in the circuit. Just a thought, I'm no expert and definately go by what I my ears tell me nowadays.
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Post by ant on Jan 17, 2017 10:33:59 GMT
A fuse doesnt care what its resistance is. It gets hot and melts when the current pulled through it gets to a certain point. The resistance isnt really relevant apart from the fact that electrically it will have a bearing on what the failure point is. The conductor in a fuse is designed to fail given certain conditions a 3a fuse will fail if a fault condition pulls 3a or more through it. It is a piece of material about 3/4 inches long thats all. A 3a fuse and a 13a fuse will have slightly different electrical characteristics as the 13a fuse will survive more current through it at 230v so is either thicker and the same material or is a different material. No material is a 100% conductor unless its superconducting so has no resistance. The kind of thing they use at cern in that particle accelerator. It stands to reason that one fuse will have differing characteristics to another if the conducting material is different. There is probably something measurably different about a 90 quid fuse. However to measure it you would have to know what to measure. Personally right this minute i wouldnt try a different fuse, i have better things to spend 90 quid on. However im sure that if i had money to blow and the inclination to spend it on such things then i would give one a go. But who am i it tell another what they should and shouldnt spend their money on? There is no 'thinking' you hear a difference, you either do or you dont. Wether its pschoacoustic is completely irrelevant. If mr jones hears a difference but mr smith doesnt, it doesnt mean one is right and one is wrong. It means both are happy as one has spent the money and got an improvement and the other has not spent the money they thought they would and will spend it on something else instead I am sceptical about most things but i wont project my opinion onto another as there is no reason that my opinion is any more relevant than theirs is. This fuse thing is a circular argument within the forum community with one side saying "you lot are mad" and the other saying " no we arent" It seems silly to be honest Do what you want, but for the sake of safety, please dont remove the fuses completely Cheers ant
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Post by gazjam on Jan 17, 2017 10:52:39 GMT
Good post Ant, informative.
Hear you on hearing what you hear, usually on the psychoacoustic thing I reckon if your not sure there IS a difference there usually isn't. Or at least one worth fretting about!
Fuses are staying in my system, albeit it may have been with potentially low risk for just a few minutes it was a mistake (imo) to run the kit without a fuse.
Lesson learned as they say.
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Post by ant on Jan 17, 2017 11:16:34 GMT
Its the risks involved in running a bar that are scary, the potential for harm is always there with electricity. A fuse wont completely mitigate that but offers some protection. Just dont do it again
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2017 11:28:19 GMT
Really good to see an informative and balanced post, which displays a "live and let live" approach, Ant. If only everyone was like that, forums would be far better places.
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Post by gazjam on Jan 17, 2017 11:34:14 GMT
Its the risks involved in running a bar that are scary, the potential for harm is always there with electricity. A fuse wont completely mitigate that but offers some protection. Just dont do it again Ok Boss
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Post by ant on Jan 17, 2017 11:35:37 GMT
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Post by MartinT on Jan 17, 2017 11:42:06 GMT
A fuse doesnt care what its resistance is. It gets hot and melts when the current pulled through it gets to a certain point. The resistance isnt really relevant apart from the fact that electrically it will have a bearing on what the failure point is. The conductor in a fuse is designed to fail given certain conditions a 3a fuse will fail if a fault condition pulls 3a or more through it. It is a piece of material about 3/4 inches long thats all. A 3a fuse and a 13a fuse will have slightly different electrical characteristics as the 13a fuse will survive more current through it at 230v so is either thicker and the same material or is a different material. This I believe is key to why ordinary fuses sound poorer than well designed ones. You're right, a fuse doesn't care about anything except that it blows at the rated current. It's the how that is important: it is essentially a non-linear resistor that suffers from thermal failure at a pre-designed current. How this non-linearity plays when music makes high-but-short peak current demands (that are nowhere near the average current 'blow' point) is where I believe the research has focussed its attention. To me, the mechanism behind fuses sounding different is much easier to understand than, say, cable differences.
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Post by ant on Jan 17, 2017 12:37:04 GMT
There are other types of fuse to the standard ones you usually see in a plug such as a slow blow fuses that will allow a short duration curent spike, but blow if there is a current surge of a longer duration. Usually used for say speaker fuses. Perhaps the 90 quid fuses are a different type of fuse to the common or garden plug fuse? I dont know, but maybe theres a possibility that comparing them with a normal fuse isnt comparing the same thing.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2017 12:57:58 GMT
Im sorry but i have to say this Typifies what i see on Audio Forums. Be a 'Yes' man or you your face don't fit. It's utterly pointless arguing against a load of Enthusiasts that do these Audio tinkerings.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2017 13:17:12 GMT
Im sorry but i have to say this Typifies Audio Forums. Be a Yes man or you your face don't fit. It's utterly pointless arguing against a load of Enthusiasts that do these Audio tinkerings. I agree that it's pointless arguing - it's unlikely that anyone is going to change their mind. But that's not to say that you are alone in the way you think - there are a few (possibly the majority - who knows?) who don't believe a fuse could ever be worth £90 (to them). It's not worth falling out over though, I hope you would agree that we all benefit from a good natured discussion where opposing views can be aired without rancour.
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Post by MartinT on Jan 17, 2017 13:47:25 GMT
But that's not to say that you are alone in the way you think - there are a few (possibly the majority - who knows?) who don't believe a fuse could ever be worth £90 (to them). If anyone here tries a fuse (doesn't have to be the £90 SR Black) and doesn't hear a difference, your opinion becomes equally valid and no-one is going to shoot you down. NOTE: I didn't say "doesn't believe there will be a difference". This discussion is about experience, not belief systems.
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Post by gazjam on Jan 17, 2017 14:03:08 GMT
Can test the theory in your system at least for the princely sum of £0. Could be all the improvement you need.
Clean up your fuses and fuse holders, put some Deoxit on if you have any. Costs you nothing but your time and it could be beneficial in your system.
Its, not EXACTLY Peter Belt levels of nuttiness, so common sense still in check. It's bit more realistic than that and worth a try.
Usual electrical common sense applies of course.
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