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Post by ChrisB on Sept 28, 2014 11:03:19 GMT
I got mine from Audiofriends in the Netherlands. I wasn't sure of the dimensions and profile of the rings that I needed, so after a brief spell with Google, I found a place in the US that had the spec: Simply SpeakersI discussed it with Fred at Audiofriends and I sent him the dimensions that were quoted at Simply Speakers: 5" GRAY, ANGLE CONE EDGE ATTACH FSK-5Ji Outer diameter: 4-9/16" (116mm) Roll outer diameter: 4" (102mm) Cone diameter: 3-3/8" (86mm) Inner diameter: 3" (76mm) Foam roll width: 5/16" (8mm) He sorted me out with something suitable in no time at all. I paid 18 Euros. He also supplies suitable glue. If you give me a little time, I'll put together a description of how to remove the drivers.
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hmr
Rank: Soloist
Posts: 10
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Post by hmr on Sept 28, 2014 11:08:00 GMT
That's brilliant - I'll order the bits and wait for your post - if I mess them up you can have a pair of knackered speakers for spare parts!
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Post by ChrisB on Sept 28, 2014 11:11:49 GMT
No, you'll walk it, it's pretty simple!
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Post by Dave on Sept 28, 2014 11:17:14 GMT
Chris, have you thought of pairing the Genexxa's up with a sub? Might be an interesting experiment
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Post by ChrisB on Sept 28, 2014 11:28:55 GMT
Well, yes, I have thought of it, but not for long actually! They are never going to give me what I need from speakers in my main system and they do fine in the system they are running in. Subwoofers always strike me as a rather incomplete solution unless you have two sitting underneath the little pair. In which case, why not just have a pair of fully implemented big speakers. Mini monitors have their place and that's the place I use the LX5s!
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Post by Dave on Sept 28, 2014 11:36:17 GMT
I suppose it all depends on whether the Genexxa's out-image your Mirages. Leaving bottom end performance out of the equation, do the Genexxa's get close at all?
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Post by ChrisB on Sept 28, 2014 11:40:52 GMT
The imaging is excellent but they can't come close to throwing the size of soundstage that the Mirages manage. That's very important to me Dave - it's a good part of the reason why I've stuck with so many of the components in my system (especially them, the Gyro and the ARC SP8) for all these years.
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Post by ChrisB on Sept 28, 2014 12:32:41 GMT
Removing the bass drivers from the Genexxa Pro LX5 speakers.First of all, pull the grille covers off. They are moulded plastic frames with cloth stretched across them. (Disregard the Optimus logo in the photo below - they were available branded as Genexxa, Optimus and even RCA - same speakers though)They have a plastic peg on each corner... ...which are a friction fit into plastic bungs sunk into the front baffle.
Now, you need to extract those plastic bungs. I used a small screwdriver to get behind the flange and just worked it around until the bung was lifted enough to pull it out with my fingers. I suppose you could wrap a piece of fishing line or something around it then pull, but the way I did it works fine. Deep inside the holes that you have just revealed are some cross head screws, so just undo those - a magnetic screwdriver will help to draw them out once they are fully undone. Now, you will find that the baffle is still attached! The front edges of the cabinet walls sit in a slot around the edge of the baffle - see photo below. That slot has a bead of sticky material in it, which acts as a seal. Just prise the two apart with your fingertips. It'll come, but it will feel like it's not going to, you just have to pull! That's got the baffle off for you. Now lie it down on its face and you will see 4 cross headed screws holding the bass driver onto the back off the baffle. Remove those. The driver rims are also bedded onto a bead of that sticky stuff - you can see it in the photo above. Just prise them off that and disconnect the spade connectors from the terminal strip on the driver - you might want to label the wires and connectors first. I just took a photo to ensure I knew which wire went where. You're done!
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hmr
Rank: Soloist
Posts: 10
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Post by hmr on Sept 28, 2014 17:24:29 GMT
Chris
Great step by step guide - I will order the new foams from Holland and set to work. I'll let you know how I get on with repairing the driver cones.
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Post by ChrisB on Sept 28, 2014 18:08:28 GMT
Excellent! When you get the rings, let us know and I'm sure there will be some more tips and tricks to tell.
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hmr
Rank: Soloist
Posts: 10
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Post by hmr on Oct 24, 2014 16:05:43 GMT
Fixed the broken speaker. Main challenge is removing the old foam from the cone without damaging it. I would recommend going to Maplins to buy a set of modelling knives and not using a Stanley knife. Although it looks harder it is in fact easier to fit the foam as per the original to the back of the cone rather than sticking to the front.
It now works fine without the buzz. I did not do the other improvements - beyond my pay grade!
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hmr
Rank: Soloist
Posts: 10
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Post by hmr on Oct 24, 2014 16:15:07 GMT
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Post by John on Oct 24, 2014 16:39:41 GMT
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Post by MartinT on Oct 24, 2014 18:18:17 GMT
Nice work there, hmr.
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Post by ChrisB on Oct 24, 2014 18:21:01 GMT
Great job. Well done you!
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Post by liffy99 on Dec 14, 2014 10:41:39 GMT
Great thread ! I have 3 pairs of these (did have 4 but sold them) and have long admired the tweeter especially. Work brilliantly with an 8W Kingrex type T amp in my study and also have a pair running from a Trends 6W amp in the kitchen and another pair hooked up to a Pioneer TV. I've replaced the foam on one pair and have a second set waiting to be put on. Also used some simple threaded bar to make an adjustable brace in one pair which works well. I once tried substituting the woofers with SEAS units as recommended by Larry van Wormer but it was a disaster as I didn't understand / know anything about modifying the crossover. Sold the SEAS. Now thinking I may try them in my main system (Finals electrostats, actively bi-amped with Lyngdorf corner woofers).
BUT
My knowledge of electronics is pants, not to mention my soldering skills. It would be SO helpful if you could provide a detailed list of the components you used (eg crossover stuff, sound deadening) and where to get them (I'm in the UK).
Must admit using the tweeters with a larger bass section would seem the way to go, but my speaker design skills would be too lacking. I'm now thinking of taking the tweeter and bass unit out of the box completely, mounting them on an open baffle and crossing over to the corner woofers at, say, 300Hz or so. However, don't open baffles need units with high QTS and XMax or is that only important for low frequencies ? I've no idea of the standard unit's parameters.
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Post by ChrisB on Dec 14, 2014 10:53:20 GMT
Hi there. Thanks for the interest. I will have to do a little raking around to try to recall where I got the various bits and pieces, so, maybe while I'm doing that, you would stop by the Welcome section to say hi to the folks by starting a new thread there? I shall be back! Cheers
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Post by ChrisB on Dec 14, 2014 11:18:48 GMT
OK, first up, the Dedsheet that I used to damp the panels came from Wilmslow Audio There are 2 grades on the page I linked to there, I think I went for the 2mm one. It has a self adhesive backing and I just used a pair of scissors to cut it. Best to use an old pair though because they get a bit of gunk on them. Nothing that won't come off with a rub with some solvent.
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Post by ChrisB on Dec 14, 2014 11:31:01 GMT
The capacitors, for which I just stuck with the original value, I went for Clarity Cap SA, which came from the Hi-Fi Collective. For cable, I eventually used some of my normal loudspeaker cable with the outer sleeve removed where necessary, in order to make it more flexible (it still has the inner insulation intact). I can't remember where the inductors came from so I will have to do a little work to find out. Bear with me!
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Post by ChrisB on Dec 14, 2014 13:02:56 GMT
The inductors came from Audio Components I chose Jantzen ones - they were 1mm wire / 1.0 mH / 52mm diam. / Air Core and cost about £8 each. As for the boxes, I really can't remember where they came from! Input sockets are available everywhere, so I don't expect you'll need help there! If you need any more help, then please yell, but most of all, keep us posted on how you're doing. It's fine to do it here in this thread or start one of your own if you'd prefer.
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