AsterX
Rank: Soloist
Posts: 13 
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Post by AsterX on Nov 3, 2016 22:35:12 GMT
Hi Folks, I'm considering upgrade standard power supply of my DAC Beresford Caiman MKII GFU with Linear PSU and as I'm not electrician I'd need your help with few technical details. In my humble opinion the ultimate solution would be 2 box design by Sbooster ( markgrant.co.uk/66-power-supplies ) or MCRU ( www.mains-cables-r-us.co.uk/55-power-supplies ), however both are far beyond 200€ what makes it inaccessible for me. I considered battery solution too, but few users who had the chance to compare it with Linear PSU went to conclusion the LPSU sound better and provide higher dynamic. I'm heading to universal Chinees Linear PSU which are available from ~50€ ( goo.gl/SqZDnv ) and from what i read even Stanley Beresford is using it with good results ( theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?45851-The-TC-7535-Caiman-SEG-at-a-glance ). So why am I hesitating to buy the model I just mentioned? Check the eBay and you'd find dozens different models what makes me ask: - How powerful should be the PSU? I know I need 15 Volts output, but how many Amperes? - Would it be sonically beneficial to go for 50VA PSU instead of 25VA? Or could too many VA roast the DAC instead? - What kind of other parts / filters should it contain? Some models have high-current output MOS transistors or specific type of capacitors, etc. Which of them would be sonically beneficial? - What kind of transformer should I look for? Is for example Bingzi Seal transformer good enough, or should I pay ~20€ more for upgraded Talema transformer? - Most of the models are not grounded what was already highlighted as big issue and should be fixed before using it. - Once I'll have suitable Liner PSU would be still beneficial add Sbooster Ultra ( markgrant.co.uk/93-sboosters ) ? - Eventually, would stand alone Sbooster Ultra for ~30€ make the same work as cheap Linear PSU for ~50€? Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me. |
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Post by Stratmangler on Nov 3, 2016 23:55:44 GMT
The MCRU supplies are designed built by hand in Halifax.
Their designer/builder really knows his onions with respect to power supplies, and his are some of the quietest you'll encounter.
You wouldn't need to add an SBooster either.
I have several of the filters, and they work fine on taming the switching noise of yer old cheap and nasty SMPS (read that as the cheap as chips rubbish that comes in the box with just about everything today), but they're not needed with the MCRU PSUs.
I'd be wary of any of the Chinese stuff on Ebay.
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Post by MartinT on Nov 4, 2016 7:06:56 GMT
I think batteries vary but the best sound better than a linear power supply to my ears, even my Paul Hynes SR3.
The XTPower MP-10000 I've been using is excellent with my previous Caiman-II and current Caiman SEG.
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Post by dsjr on Nov 5, 2016 9:41:34 GMT
Don't batteries have extra noise though? OK, summat I read once..
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Post by Greg on Nov 5, 2016 10:54:01 GMT
Don't batteries have extra noise though? OK, summat I read once.. Yes. |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2016 10:57:14 GMT
I use a Anker battery with my Caiman II and I'm very happy with it so far  |
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Post by tony on Nov 5, 2016 17:46:09 GMT
I ran mine with a big car battery. It powered a caiman 2/Capela/ 2 x temple mono blocks-just about got bye with a big car battery solar panel during the summer. Winter needed charge ups maybe once a fortnight.
Prefered it to a li-po power pack I had for the Dac-other members that heard it liked the li-po better. Stans origional psu aint too shabby but can be improved on with a battery supply.
Dont know about batteries adding noise-the lowering of the noise floor was the most noticeable effect they brought IMHO.
Havent tried any of the expensive PSUs so cant comment....
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AsterX
Rank: Soloist
Posts: 13
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Post by AsterX on Nov 5, 2016 19:09:11 GMT
So far it looks most users are preferring battery, that's interesting. Maybe I will start my research over again. I'm sure big car battery in living room would be great new toy for my small kids  so rather no. But let's say I'd like to try some laptop battery bank - what would be the optimal features / specifications? Just bigger means better? |
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Post by MartinT on Nov 5, 2016 22:18:11 GMT
The one I'm using is 10,000mAH and could run the Caiman for several days. I charge it every night on a timer. It's small and just does the job. It could be that batteries have more internal noise but that's offset by very low output impedance.
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Post by Stratmangler on Nov 6, 2016 9:27:42 GMT
Don't batteries have extra noise though? OK, summat I read once.. It depends. There's no such thing as a 5v battery. To make the battery 5v there's a very high probability that a switching regulator has been used to bring a 6v battery down to 5v. It's the switching regulator wot generates the noise. And it's possible to build quieter linear PSUs. |
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Post by pre65 on Nov 6, 2016 11:24:17 GMT
5V ?
I run my Bushmaster 2 from a Maplins 13.8v regulated power supply, and according to Stan up to 14v can sound better.
So, a car battery should be perfectly ok.
My Bushmaster came with a battery supply (from Martin) , but when the battery failed I preferred the Maplins. Only a slight difference mind.
My Touch has a Nick G linear PSU (from MCRU) but I could not notice a great difference from the wall wart. Nick told me that the difference was greater if using the RCA outs rather than a DAC. Incidentally the internal DAC in a Touch is very good. 
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Post by Stratmangler on Nov 6, 2016 11:47:10 GMT
5V ?
I run my Bushmaster 2 from a Maplins 13.8v regulated power supply, and according to Stan up to 14v can sound better.
So, a car battery should be perfectly ok.
My Bushmaster came with a battery supply (from Martin) , but when the battery failed I preferred the Maplins. Only a slight difference mind.
My Touch has a Nick G linear PSU (from MCRU) but I could not notice a great difference from the wall wart. Nick told me that the difference was greater if using the RCA outs rather than a DAC. Incidentally the internal DAC in a Touch is very good. I was thinking of a Squeezebox Touch or RasPi PSU when I mentioned 5v. There ain't no such thing as a 14v battery either (think multiples of 1.5 and do the sums). If you have a 14v power pack then there will be something to bring the 15v the serially connected power cells can provide down to 14v. For cost and reliability it will be a switched regulator. And the regulator will create noise. Not a lot, but it will be there. The car battery will be fine - it might offend some folk's aesthetic sensibilities, but it will work just fine. |
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Post by MartinT on Nov 6, 2016 11:50:14 GMT
It could be two diodes in series, will drop it by 1.2V or so.
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Post by MartinT on Nov 6, 2016 11:52:38 GMT
Oh, and you can get small 12V sealed lead acid batteries, it need not be a car battery. Try the Yuasa range.
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AsterX
Rank: Soloist
Posts: 13
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Post by AsterX on Nov 6, 2016 21:08:51 GMT
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AsterX
Rank: Soloist
Posts: 13
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Post by AsterX on Nov 6, 2016 21:46:55 GMT
This is interesting DIY project forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=66806.0 only over complicated, not sure how expensive and not very successful in the end. But still I like the idea to put the battery, charger and one simple manual switch in closed metal box. |
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Post by pre65 on Nov 6, 2016 22:48:50 GMT
This is interesting DIY project forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=66806.0 only over complicated, not sure how expensive and not very successful in the end. But still I like the idea to put the battery, charger and one simple manual switch in closed metal box. Why bother when the bloke who built it freely admits he could not tell the difference between both modes. Looks a nice bit of kit though. |
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Post by kettlechips on Nov 7, 2016 10:14:30 GMT
I tried the Anker battery with my Caiman II but couldn't be bothered with the re charging etc. I'm now powering mine with one of the Chinese PSU's mentioned earlier, and I can't really hear a difference between it and the battery. Could be my ears! Anyway it sounds fine, and is always on, so no need to fiddle about recharging batteries.
You can also fine tune the output voltage from the PSU to suit different kit. I have three in total, one powering the Caiman II, one powering a raspberry pi, and one powering my Stereo Coffee DLR pre amp.
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AsterX
Rank: Soloist
Posts: 13
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Post by AsterX on Nov 7, 2016 11:08:49 GMT
Why bother when the bloke who built it freely admits he could not tell the difference between both modes. My thoughts: If all the folks here and on the internet are right, then the battery just have to be beneficial for the sound quality. And if the guy didn't hear the difference there have to be some explanation: issue with battery / limits of the DAC or whole chain / limits of his "golden ears" or issue with his design. From my position I can't comment the design but somehow I feel it is overcomplicated therefore I mentioned the simple manual switch. |
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AsterX
Rank: Soloist
Posts: 13
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Post by AsterX on Nov 7, 2016 11:17:15 GMT
I'm now powering mine with one of the Chinese PSU's mentioned earlier, and I can't really hear a difference between it and the battery. How would you describe the difference in sound between original switched power supply and the Chinese linear PSU? |
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so rather no. But let's say I'd like to try some laptop battery bank - what would be the optimal features / specifications? Just bigger means better? 
