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Post by zippy on Apr 16, 2016 12:48:36 GMT
What would a single (orange colour coded) phono socket on the back of a PC be for ?
In this case it was a HP Pro 3010, but I cant find a reference to it's use.
Good old Wikipedia says it should be a SP/DIF output ? I think orange and black audio output sockets are for surround sound use - Wikipaedia is usually your friend ! Not sure where you got the SPDIF from - these are the official Intel colour codes as given on the wikipaedia page I looked at: Color Function Connector symbol Pink Analog microphone audio input. 3.5 mm minijack A microphone Light blue Analog line level audio input. 3.5 mm minijack An arrow going into a circle Lime green Analog line level audio output for the main stereo signal (front speakers or headphones). 3.5 mm minijack Arrow going out one side of a circle into a wave Orange Analog line level audio output for center channel speaker and subwoofer. 3.5 mm minijack Black Analog line level audio output for surround speakers, typically rear stereo. 3.5 mm minijack Silver/Grey Analog line level audio output for surround optional side channels. 3.5 mm minijack Brown/Dark Analog line level audio output for a special panning, 'Right-to-left speaker'. 3.5 mm minijack Gold/Grey Game port / MIDI 15 pin D Arrow going out both sides into waves |
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Post by stanleyb on Apr 16, 2016 12:49:58 GMT
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Post by Slinger on Apr 16, 2016 13:01:00 GMT
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Post by MartinT on Apr 16, 2016 15:27:31 GMT
Very drole!
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Post by ChrisB on Apr 16, 2016 16:32:03 GMT
Orange is as good as any colour! Try telling Mike that. |
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Post by MartinT on Apr 16, 2016 16:38:15 GMT
Magenta Devine always wears black.
Magenta, orange. Close?
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Post by pre65 on Apr 24, 2016 11:44:45 GMT
I got a Lenovo laptop for Jean, but after she dropped it the wireless connection is playing up, sometimes works, sometimes not. 
It works fine with a LAN wired connection.
Could I use a USB dongle thingy to regain wireless use ? If so which type is preferable.
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Post by MartinT on Apr 24, 2016 13:19:12 GMT
I would take the back off first, see if the wi-fi card (usually a plug-in PCI card) has become dislodged.
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Post by pre65 on Apr 24, 2016 14:21:01 GMT
I found a you-tube video of where the wireless card is positioned.
It's secured with a screw, but I removed and refitted it, and it's working again. Time will tell if it's "fixed". 
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Post by MartinT on Apr 24, 2016 17:15:39 GMT
Good!
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Post by pre65 on May 8, 2016 9:29:59 GMT
When doing a Google search each search heading changes colour slightly (after you have selected) so when you return previous searches are easy to identify.
I like this function, but on my (Lenovo T540p) laptop the colour change is so slight as to be not noticed.
Is there any way to adjust this setting ?
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Post by MartinT on May 8, 2016 9:39:05 GMT
I can't see it in Google settings. Have you tried adjusting the contrast of the laptop display?
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Post by pre65 on May 8, 2016 10:07:57 GMT
I found an ap in Google called "change colour", and I can now customise my Google search results.
Magic. 
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Post by pre65 on Aug 12, 2016 14:23:11 GMT
My Sister lives in France, and she has a computer. She would like wi-fi, but only when she wants it, not 24/7. This device has been recommended to her as suitable for her need. www.tp-link.com/en/products/details/TL-WR710N.htmlCan anyone confirm if said device can have the wi-fi turned off when not required ? Or, if there is a more simple way to achieve the same end. |
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Post by MartinT on Aug 12, 2016 14:50:17 GMT
Pull it out of the socket?
Most of them have a setup web page in which there is often an 'enable' box for wi-fi which can be unticked when needed. Why not just leave it running?
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Post by pre65 on Sept 2, 2016 16:29:57 GMT
A lot has been said about using mobile phones (smartphones) or tablets to operate things (like a Squeezebox Touch).
Does it matter if the smartphone / tablet is Android or Windows ?
Would it all work if one had no broadband or router ?
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Post by MartinT on Sept 2, 2016 16:36:36 GMT
It mostly doesn't matter as most 'things' are operated by Browser, like Volumio on the Raspberry Pi, for instance. A few things need an app like my Tado heating controller, then you need to check that the app is available for your platform.
The internet thing depends on what you're controlling. Many household devices will need wi-fi and a router to operate.
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Post by pre65 on Dec 13, 2016 13:58:42 GMT
Seems there are people having trouble logging onto the internet after a W10 update.
This piece of advice really made me laugh.
"Some customers using Windows 10 have reported difficulties connecting to the internet," said a spokeswoman for Microsoft.
"As a first step, we recommend customers restart their PCs.
"If this does not resolve the problem, visit our website for further support."
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Post by MartinT on Dec 13, 2016 14:09:14 GMT
On a couple of our machines, out of about 140, we had to clear the internet cache to get them to reconnect after the updates. All are working fine now.
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Post by zippy on Dec 13, 2016 14:27:54 GMT
My wife was away, and using mobile phone tethering for internet on her MS tablet.
SHe had problems that the tablet seemed to freeze up for no reason, until we discovered:
1. that it was doing a huge Windows update and not letting anything else get a look in
2. that the update was burning up her monthly data allowance
3. that she couldn't turn Windows update off - the on/off facility seems to have died with Win7 - the only official thing you can do is change its auto update time by tweaking the active hours.
( you can apparently go into Admin Tools and shut down the Update service, but that's a serious tweak and she's not up to that tec level !)
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