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subs
Apr 5, 2018 12:23:28 GMT
Post by tonyone on Apr 5, 2018 12:23:28 GMT
How does one get the correct level of crossover with the main pair thought? trial and error turning the crossover up and down etc? I used a test CD with low frequency tones then set the controls for as flat a response down to sub frequencies as I could, with no peak in the crossover area. Start with setting the crossover frequency at the -3dB rolloff of your main speakers. A few trials and plots with Excel should achieve a decent amount of integration. A rule of thumb is that if you can hear the sub then it's set too high in level. You should only have the impression that your main speakers have grown in size. Mmmm test tones, good idea.
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subs
Apr 5, 2018 12:35:58 GMT
via mobile
Post by John on Apr 5, 2018 12:35:58 GMT
In my case I know when the PRV bottom out so gives me a rough ballpark to aim for As well as crossovers you have different slopes to play with
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subs
Apr 5, 2018 14:26:21 GMT
Post by naim1425 on Apr 5, 2018 14:26:21 GMT
main thing is getting the phase right,you should one of the settings will be louder,that will be the right one,then set the volume level for the room on the sub,the blend in the crossover so can just here the integration of sub and exterior speakers,i always start a little to high then back off a bit till you hit the sweet spot,if you can hear the bass all the time its to high as Martin said it enhances bass and vocals,just goes lower than main speakers,secret is you don't want to notice the sub,if the loudness is right and still not right then back off the crossover a bit.remember the phase is not right it will never be right,you really can hear the louder the sound on the phase then its right.if you set it up for 2 speakers if you go to 5.1 the balance of the front spk will be the same as using it in stereo.rel have phase knob 1 or 2,and remember to change the setting for slam for movies and music for music,if you want to do the sub crawl for positioning the sub,the easiest way is to put the sub in your sitting position and you move your self around the room when you hear the sweet spot put the sub in that position,much easier than moving the sub around the room.when i set the crossover i lie on the floor next to the sub with the wife in the listening chair and adjust it,a little to high it will be booming back off a little till she says it correct,if you cannot get it just right back off the subs volume.using the av amps will usually set it to about -4 db (pioneer) oppo has a better set up in the settings,but it still will not be as good as manually
av amp test tones are never right
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subs
Apr 5, 2018 14:53:43 GMT
Post by naim1425 on Apr 5, 2018 14:53:43 GMT
THIS MAY HELP SOMEONE
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subs
Apr 5, 2018 14:55:08 GMT
Post by naim1425 on Apr 5, 2018 14:55:08 GMT
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subs
Apr 5, 2018 14:57:27 GMT
Post by naim1425 on Apr 5, 2018 14:57:27 GMT
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subs
Apr 5, 2018 14:59:27 GMT
Post by naim1425 on Apr 5, 2018 14:59:27 GMT
THIS MAY HELP SOMEONE
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subs
Apr 5, 2018 16:02:49 GMT
Post by naim1425 on Apr 5, 2018 16:02:49 GMT
i use 2 of these,there is better like the older rel studio and the new ones are better, the r528`s were for cosmetic reasons
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subs
Apr 11, 2018 22:22:48 GMT
via mobile
Post by docfoster on Apr 11, 2018 22:22:48 GMT
Bit of a bass head here... Currently I have only an improvised sub (BK electronics sub plate-amp stuck into an old 18 inch bass speaker cab). The above set-up instructions resonate with my own experiences playing about with that. So yes! Useful. Especially: 1. The helpfulness of having a second person to tweak controls so that one can remain in the listening position, and; 2. The way that tweaking one setting inevitably effects the fine tuning of the others. The sub never fails to raise a smile. And once set up adequately (ie reasonably integrated into stereo image, added dynamic heft without too much smeer) I prefer to have the sub with my smaller woofered speakers (<12 inch) than without it. Setup seems less fiddly and critical with larger woofered main speakers but the benefit : cost ratio starts to narrow. I don’t use it with my 18 inch mains.
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subs
Apr 13, 2018 12:06:33 GMT
Post by liffy99 on Apr 13, 2018 12:06:33 GMT
I use two passive bass units - Lyngdorf W210s. Each has 2 opposing 10” lightweight paper cones (made by Vifa I believe) in a reflex ported corner cabinet. Designed to be placed in corners. I run electrostatics for the mains and had little success integrating active subs (Final S200 and REL Storm). As i can actively biamp i can quite finely tune the crossover from stats to subs (the W210s are designed to cover the range up to 3kHz or so and be crossed over higher than normal ‘subs’. ) This helps fill in a typical lower midrange dip in many ‘stats output. i crossover at 270Hz with a steep 48db slope so output from the subs is virtually gone by 600Hz and the ‘stats see no effective bass below 120Hz. this lets the ‘stats play a little louder as they are spared large panel excursion. its not perfect but works better for me than active subs and hybrids ( like ML Prodigies i used to use). Main issue is that, as a singer / instrumentalist descends in frequency, the image can shift a little as the reproduction transfers from stat panels to subs. However this is largely ameliorated by managing to position the W210s behind the stats in line of sight from the listen8ng position.
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subs
Apr 13, 2018 15:55:35 GMT
Post by karatestu on Apr 13, 2018 15:55:35 GMT
My 12 inchers are in a sealed cube of their own. I have two 12" drivers in parallel in isobaric configuration with an equal volume given to each driver. The drivers are both doped to attenuate the unwanted frequencies, no inductors or caps or anything else between amplifier and drivers (except LS6 speaker cable of course). This big bass cube is used to sit a smaller enclosure on top which has a forward firing tweeter and an up firing doped 5" for bass and mid range. No crossover components on that either except a 3.3uf cap and 12R resistor in series with the tweeter. The big isobaric bass cabs work really really well and I am hearing music reproduced like never before
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