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Post by mattspl on Dec 11, 2019 22:28:23 GMT
Looking good Martin. The P3 looks right at home in the rack.
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Post by MartinT on Dec 12, 2019 20:18:45 GMT
Just taking one example, the superb album The Invisible Way by Low. Listening to Plastic Cup, the singing is deceptively simple but, as always with Low, they are in superb lockstep with each other. The point at which Mimi sings high at the end of each key phrase had eluded me until now. I can hear exactly when she does that, and also hear that she is mic'd slightly in front of his voice. Meanwhile, her rhythmic drumming overlays it all metronomically. They have far more talent than very many bands I can think of, and their laid back manner demands further attention.
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Post by MartinT on Dec 13, 2019 11:04:58 GMT
Now to a tricky subject, but one I've given thought to in my 'final tidying up' phase.
Nearly all my components have a fuse in their power cable and a rear panel fuse. This doubling-up annoys me and diminishes the effect of, say, a good SR Orange fuse in the cable plug when there is still a stock or lesser SR fuse in the rear panel. It's also unnecessary to protect an item twice. I will therefore retain the plug fuse (it protects the cable as well as the component) and will bypass all my rear panel fuses.
I have some 5mm (for 20 x 5mm fuses) and 6mm (for 1¼ x ¼" fuses) copper rod and will fabricate bypass slugs for the fuseholders.
I AM NOT RECOMMENDING THIS - DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK.
I will ensure that there is one protecting fuse for every component. My regenerators additionally have a rear panel breaker. Hopefully this will allow the SR Orange plug fuses, that I shall slowly migrate to, to exert their full benefit while eliminating the destructive effect of another fuse getting in the way. It's exactly the opposite, and equivalent, to those using Schuko plugs (eliminating the plug fuse).
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2019 11:35:03 GMT
Martin, what inspired you to go ‘back to front’ in this respect?
In other words, opting to keep a fuse in the lead and a buss bar in the equipment, as opposed to a Schuko lead?
Also, I’m interested to know why you chose SR orange over Audio Magic’s top range of fuses (bearing in mind I’ve not used either)?
I don’t mean to sound like the inquisition, I’m just curious as to your reasoning, given that our choices tend to be aligned with lots of things audio.
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Post by MartinT on Dec 13, 2019 12:03:53 GMT
Simple: I want my power cables to be universal, to be able to take them places, use them at friends, use them in shows. I don't want to be shackled with Schuko cables that I can't use anywhere else. Also, my regenerators are UK spec.
On the fuse front: I know and have used SR fuses for a good number of years now, starting with the Quantums. Each new version has built on its predecessor so I trusted that the Orange would be special, and it is. I'm not trusting an unknown fuse at that kind of cost.
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Post by jandl100 on Dec 13, 2019 12:58:06 GMT
Posting about that fuse ploy would have gotten you a permanent ban from the old Wigwam forum.  Really important you remember about it when you change mains leads! And what would your insurers think if there was an incident, even if not directly related to the absence of fuse? Unlikely they'd find out about it, I guess. But I'd say there are things that are not worth risking for an extra iota of possible sq improvement! ____ Not that I'd try to teach a qualified technician, but does the mains lead fuse actually provide the protection that the equipment needs? - the mains lead fuse is only actually there to protect the cable, I think? Anyway, beyond my expertise, but just raising concerns. |
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Post by MartinT on Dec 13, 2019 13:08:08 GMT
The mains lead protects the cable and the component it is connected to (provided the earth is connected). Doing it my way won't have an impact when changing cables, it would only be an issue when changing countries! Fusing the plug is law, I'm not doing anything to tamper with that. Also, do remember that there is further protection through my regenerators.
As I said, I'm just blogging about what I'm doing, it's not a recommendation.
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Post by Slinger on Dec 13, 2019 13:40:06 GMT
Martin, I can't quite understand what qualities you're ascribing to the Orangefuses. Are you suggesting that they actually 'add' something to the sound, or that each successive iteration is just a bit more transparent than the previous one? I always remember that one of Richard Dunn's favourite sayings was that the best fuse is no fuse at all. Leaving aside safety concerns for a moment, surely that's true?
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Post by MartinT on Dec 13, 2019 13:41:52 GMT
Martin, I can't quite understand what qualities you're ascribing to the Orangefuses. Are you suggesting that they actually 'add' something to the sound, or that each successive iteration is just a bit more transparent than the previous one? I always remember that one of Richard Dunn's favourite sayings was that the best fuse is no fuse at all. Leaving aside safety concerns for a moment, surely that's true? No, as with all good fuses, they subtract as little as possible. The best fuse IS no fuse. However, that's not allowed so in my case the best fuse is ONE GOOD one! |
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Post by Slinger on Dec 13, 2019 13:45:08 GMT
Martin, I can't quite understand what qualities you're ascribing to the Orangefuses. Are you suggesting that they actually 'add' something to the sound, or that each successive iteration is just a bit more transparent than the previous one? I always remember that one of Richard Dunn's favourite sayings was that the best fuse is no fuse at all. Leaving aside safety concerns for a moment, surely that's true? No, as with all good fuses, they subtract as little as possible. The best fuse IS no fuse. However, that's not allowed so in my case the best fuse is ONE GOOD one! I'm going to be horribly pedantic now. (Oh look, nobody is surprised.) Do you mean that they "subtract as little as possible," or do they actually "add" as little as possible? |
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Post by MartinT on Dec 13, 2019 14:43:01 GMT
As I wrote, they should subtract as little as possible. Of course, if you have a stock fuse with a non-linear thermal response curve, how you define it is down to semantics. You could see it as adding or subtracting something to change the original.
If you prefer, 'change the signal as little as possible'.
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Post by John on Dec 13, 2019 15:34:06 GMT
I think it is a good question what exactly are audio fuses doing Do they add, subtract or try to be as neutral as possible I personally have an open mind to this. Perhaps it is worthy of its own thread.
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Post by MartinT on Dec 13, 2019 15:52:27 GMT
You could say "add distortion" but really it's a non-linear resistor, affecting the current going through it. It can really only subtract. That still creates distortion of the original signal current (either AC or DC depending on the fuse).
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Post by MartinT on Dec 13, 2019 20:30:18 GMT
Job's done, copper bypass bars fabricated and in place in both regenerators. There is an improvement, but I won't dwell on it since the point is lost on those who don't understand that two fuses in series is one too many.
What is very interesting, though, is that I released a spare 20mm 10A SR Blue. Exactly the size in my power amp rear panel, but that one was a Red. I swapped it in and the difference from Red to Blue is astonishing. There is immediately more depth and the tiniest of rounding of edges, giving the sound an analogue feel. I'm going to live with it for a bit, see which I prefer. It's like having a tone control!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 14, 2019 2:36:17 GMT
Hi Martin, thanks for sharing your rationale; I’m sorry if my questions seemed ‘challenging’ that wasn’t my intention, I was genuinely interested. It sounds like you’re in a good place with your set up now.
Btw I use schuko plugs for everything that comes from my mains conditioner (six of them). Even from my wall there is an Australian plug (no fuse like Schuko, just different pins). I’d never go back after hearing what it does for a system.
When I’m back in England I’ll go back to a fused plug in the wall, as per the law.
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Post by MikeMusic on Dec 14, 2019 11:40:59 GMT
realysm42 think again about fuses ! Whatever you have can have Schuko sockets like my AM conditioner or a PS Audio regenerator. One level of fuses out of the picture and £s saved
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Post by MartinT on Dec 14, 2019 12:28:20 GMT
Good for you both. It certainly opens up the sound. I don't want Schukos so I went about it differently but I still have one fuse protecting each component. Sounds magnificent.
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Post by MartinT on Dec 14, 2019 17:40:22 GMT
Tony sorted out my 6D interconnects for me today, they are now proper XLR to phono, perfect for my Burson buffer to Belles power amp run. The system is up and running and sounding bloody superb.
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Post by MartinT on Dec 14, 2019 17:42:43 GMT
Hi Martin, thanks for sharing your rationale; I’m sorry if my questions seemed ‘challenging’ that wasn’t my intention, I was genuinely interested. It sounds like you’re in a good place with your set up now. Not at all, Martin, that's what forums are for. Yes I am, and listening to more music than ever. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 14, 2019 17:56:48 GMT
Tony sorted out my 6D interconnects for me today, they are now proper XLR to phono, perfect for my Burson buffer to Belles power amp run. The system is up and running and sounding bloody superb. Crikey you didn't hang about getting back 
I suspected that would bring about some positives, now working on the next amplifier lol
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