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Post by MartinT on Jun 2, 2016 8:57:14 GMT
Yay, Colin, freedom to express yourself again! Congratulations.
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Post by MikeMusic on Jun 2, 2016 11:27:41 GMT
Many congratulations Colin
Surely a separate thread for that !
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Post by zappytheviking on Jun 2, 2016 12:32:28 GMT
3 Cheers for FREEDOM!!! Congratulations, can't wait to see what you will craft. Yes, the FETs most certainly have gone off to better pastures. Anything else to check for or just replace them? Already ordered based on the parts list, the 4410, now I see the ones on the board were 3710. Big difference between 4410 and 3710? Those are the crap pads in place right now . These ceramic pads are nearly here, been waiting 4 weeks, www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371144914592?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT . Get your farnell pads instead? Will get me rectangular Alu supports, do it right.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 2, 2016 17:40:16 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jun 2, 2016 17:47:20 GMT
Also I have rearranged the PSU which has with this simple mod will force the PSU board to close down in constant current mode. Less chance of smouldering FET,s Change R10 to 1K and R11 to 10K, Change R13 to 1K and R10 to 10K as in this circuit.
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Post by zappytheviking on Jun 2, 2016 22:13:55 GMT
Zappy the FET killer seems to have inspired a modification of his own, most honoured . Will put it with the plans.
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Post by zappytheviking on Jun 10, 2016 0:50:58 GMT
Update on the repairs, new FETs arrived. Fumbling in the dark with this, please do chime in with any thoughts. Still keeps popping the right side fuse, measured D5-8, the next thing after fuses, AC to DC rectification I would assume, not on chart but what else could it be. The left set does not conduct(Mohms in both directions) and the right side ones do. Unclear on exactly why a half working rectifier would roast fuses, still, these diodes died when the short drew a large current that's for sure. Is half wave rectification enough to bust a fuse? Maybe when I replace the diodes I get both fuses burning out, wouldn't that be something Going to order a few 6A20G swap all 4 out and cross my fingers nothing else is fried, the 4-5 day wait for parts is tremendously frustrating, but this will get fixed dammit.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2016 5:40:56 GMT
It does look like diodes have gone, I chuck some in the post today. Same address I hope.
Best Col
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Post by MartinT on Jun 10, 2016 5:57:10 GMT
If the diodes have gone short, that would blow fuses. Is your AC in from the transformer the voltage you expect to see?
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Post by zappytheviking on Jun 10, 2016 6:10:10 GMT
Sadly I ordered 8 of them earlier this morning together with a dozen fuses. Much appreciated Colin, thank you.
Martin, I am getting +20/-20 seems ok.
I have been listening to music in mono today and damn does it sound good. Even with 1 piddly desktop speaker you can hear the difference. Running at 280mV on the bias, heatsink barely hitting 40C at lowest fan speeds, package is about 55C.
Responsive bass that thumps you out of nowhere, almost fell out of my chair listening to a heavy metal ballad with a sudden thunderous whack, majestic. A cello in the background, sweetness is the only word I can think of right now. The sense of depth in the midrange and the tiny details, yummy.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2016 8:42:29 GMT
To late spare diodes plus on there way by pigeon post.
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Post by zappytheviking on Jun 10, 2016 8:48:40 GMT
Again, thanks for the support, above and beyond. 3 PCBs left to build, I am sure there is a use for them :-)
Best Tommi
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2016 9:01:45 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2016 9:32:08 GMT
By doing this simple mod you can add a up to another 7W to the SECA and not increase the temperature. Top earth plain removed to show cut tracks.
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Post by zappytheviking on Jun 10, 2016 11:39:42 GMT
Now you tempt me with another 7W, I wants it so bad, how am I going to resist. I barely have 1 working channel as it is. Will it work well with the PSU board later? I dont have insomnia but I get obsessively interested and keep going until I drop, effectively the same. Cooling things is almost a hobby in itself for me, I can ramble on forever, apologies for the wall of text. I would love to toss around ideas on cooling, who knows, I might come up with something useful. What is really great about peltiers is the pinpoint precision you get if you throw enough power at the problem. I remember looking at a peltier controller circuit. The thing is, every time you stop feeding power the heat seeps back, so you need to always have a current going through the peltier. A PID that controls Voltage somehow or PWM with a positive DC offset would probably be best. If you ever want a FET at a precise temperature for some form of testing, peltiers are perfect for that. Heatpipes on the other hand are amazing at moving heat away from a concentrated source, I think that's a big part of the temps I am getting with relatively little heatsink mass. Heatpipes contain water/ethanol/acetone under vacuum that boils at a specific temperature, the vapour spreads the heat along the pipe near instantly, usually they are set for 35-50C depending on what type of heatpipe you select. There are specialized ones too for odd applications like satellites with helium or some other gas in them to operate well in the void of space. Anyhows, there are reasonably priced 10 and 20cm ones on ebay and you can easily buy or drill a plate to fit them directly on the FETs, as long as you have good cooling on the other end they will be magical. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6mm-Heatpipe-for-DIY-Fanless-PC-Passive-CPU-Cooling-System-220mm-/171806190750?hash=item2800726c9e:g:lJwAAOSwZd1VZvH9Here is a pad to attach the heatpipes. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIY-Aluminum-Thermal-Mounting-Radiator-Pad-for-3-x-6mm-Heat-Pipes-/171816661141?hash=item2801123095:g:JnQAAOSw~OdVcchaIf you wanted to cool a FET quickly and spread the heat onto a heatsink then heatpipes are a good solution, there are even flat ones, you just cant drill into them or they wont work. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEAT-PIPE-ULTRA-FLAT-1TX100L-MM-Part-AMEC-THERMASOL-MHP-1220A-100A-/271932773766?hash=item3f5074d586:g:NEcAAOxyBjBTPxmiA side note , TEGs, more heat resistant peltiers used to generate electricity instead , I really want to build one for our cabin in the woods, generate electricity with the thermal differential AND heat the cabin. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TEG-Power-Thermoelectric-Generator-Wood-Stove-/221382596452?var=&hash=item338b6e5764:m:mE-Ah0y1F7FpiEcpHB3r1MA
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2016 12:32:13 GMT
I used the Peltier to produce electricity on cooling solar panel as they were turn away from the sun to the shade, hot could be 200C cold side -200C, great for space craft. Ha ha yes the PSU board with this mod does work and very very well now with this combo it is so close to the £6000. Iridium I doubt if many people could hear the difference, but not as good as James,s Sovereign SECA that is a one of only. If any body wants to build that you will be looking at about £1000-2000 on parts alone. Ouch said James. And a big electric bill so it only for the rich with there own generators.
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Post by zappytheviking on Jun 10, 2016 13:37:15 GMT
I better not tell you about peltier's then, space parts are above my pay grade so to speak ;-)
They are a very useful invention.
This is shaping up to be the amp of a lifetime, there is no way I am ever parting with this one.
It sounds great AND it scratches that tweaking and upgrading itch nicely. This is exactly what I would do to a PC, tweak it to the enth degree , see what it can do.
Just bumped up the bias to 295mV, took proper temp measurements with room at 20C, heatsink 29C, package 51.2C, No worries with heat at all.
As for being able to tell, so far this amp is destroying all the mass market systems I have ever heard. I must say that might not mean much, I have not spent a day with any premium equipment +2K, best I have at hand is a Marantz PM6005 and tannoy mercury speakers. Right now with 1 20y old JPW 510 it sounds amazing. So exciting to hear what happens with the mod and PSU board.
Wouldn't that be something , trek to the HiFi store with my mystical wooden box, show them what's what hahaha.
I might need to ask you for guidance on the mod, I dont feel too sure about peeling off bits of PCB.
James,s Seca is spectacular, I have read that thread so many times, when he gets the tri-amp setup going I will aspire to copy him as best I can.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2016 13:45:33 GMT
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Post by zappytheviking on Jun 10, 2016 13:47:47 GMT
Whenever I can I will make the trek, it's about 1000km south of here.
Haha, he has some Tannoy Canteburys, I will never own a pair but would be nice to have a listen.
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Post by zappytheviking on Jun 11, 2016 3:25:29 GMT
I woke up, the SECA had been running over night, I put on a tune. Its......Its........Its......... How can this tiny speaker do this, this, I...I.....Mind Blown. After warming up, burning in, whatever you might call it, 30h of on time, the change is shocking. I thought it sounded really good yesterday. Imagine a 2m wide bowl behind the speaker with a little stuffing in the back, suddenly it's gone, the sound is everywhere. I can go 4 rooms away and still hear it clearly. The bass drum sounds like it is in the room not stuck to the speaker, the guitar is so clear it's like having a 3m tall man in the room gently playing a 2m tall guitar to you. I used to strive for positioning myself juuust right to get a sense of space and stereo image, getting the best FLAC encoded recordings, shielding my speaker wire, what the hell was I thinking, those little baby steps, how did I not know about this, someone should have told me. Everything sounds so real, who cares about being wrapped in music when you can swim in an ocean of it. This is in mono!!!!!!
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