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Post by zappytheviking on May 21, 2016 3:50:54 GMT
Great thread Zappy, looks like your doing a Stirling job. I've got to get my arse in gear and crack on with my build, but I've had a couple of wee issues to get out of the way first. Best of luck with the build. Thank you. Can't wait to see how the Wonfor tower of power will turn out, inspirational. Waiting on the chinese, binding posts and ceramic insulators are yet to arrive, I want so badly to hear this beauty sing for the first time, just a little while longer. I bought a case, some assembly required.
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Post by zappytheviking on May 28, 2016 11:58:46 GMT
Case has been glued, router trimmed, sanded, stained and 4 or 5 coats of lacquer so far, now let it dry properly and sand it flat before last coats. The final bits from china just arrived, I will be ready for a test run within days, just have to crack on. Next, build supports for heatsinks and fans then start on the electronics.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 28, 2016 18:41:19 GMT
It is looking good, come on quick lets see the completed beast, I hate serials.
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Post by MartinT on May 28, 2016 19:12:43 GMT
That's coming along nicely.
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richb
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Post by richb on May 28, 2016 22:26:51 GMT
Interesting thread. Thanks for sharing.
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Post by Chris on May 29, 2016 18:46:01 GMT
Yip,very interesting. Can't wait to hear how it turns out.
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Post by zappytheviking on May 30, 2016 17:40:17 GMT
Thanks for the pep guys. Will hurry as fast as I can, so eager to hear what the sound is like. Mostly done with heatsink mounts, if all goes well the first sounds will be heard tomorrow sans wood cover, the eye watering mirror finish will be 3-4 days more. Following the tips from www.audiochews.com/discussion/1666/bens-one4-wonfor-seca-build-ready-populated-boardsAnswered many questions, did not have to bug you guys with it. Quite interested to see how this setup will handle thermals.
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Post by MikeMusic on May 31, 2016 14:45:11 GMT
Great stuff.
I sit back in awe
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Post by MartinT on Jun 1, 2016 7:19:46 GMT
I still think that's great use of CPU coolers.
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Post by zappytheviking on Jun 1, 2016 13:46:34 GMT
Thanks Martin, something different, comes with its challenges. Now for today's list of progress and cockups. It all begins late last night, things are as they should be, a quiet and peaceful dusk enjoyed with a glass of scotch and a soldering iron. After some learnings, such as WHY you use hooks to measure the current on the resistor, things seemed to progress. After that scare, the baby still seems to be alive, sturdy stuff good Sir Wonfor. Adjusted the current to 175mV, those are some sensitive pots, a hairs step gives you 50-100mV. DC offset to 12mV at speaker terminals, the chews thread said 10mV, couldn't get it, I hope 12mV is close enough . The flop sweats started to fade, perhaps there is hope after all. The heatsinks seem to be up to the job, barely felt any heat buildup. The fastening bars on the FETs got to 55-60C, probably close to the package temps. I am wondering, the heatsink chart, does it refer to package or heatsink temp? Is this setup having too low a heat transfer to heatsink? A joyous occasion, the beast is ready to bellow its first roar, but alas, something is rotten in the state of denmark. I hooked up the amp to the desk speakers, my workhorses through the decades, JPW-510s. Before I started feeding signal into the amp the main house fuse popped. Well, I tried once more, now I had sound on the right side only, the left, cold as ice, dead in the water, damn. Time once more to sweat profusely, is this the end, will it ever live a full life? The hunt begins, the first thing i noticed, the amp board fuses were fried, not too surprising. I started beeping to see if there was a short. Yup, it seems the FETs feet had a direct short to ground, what the hell. I release the FETs from the heatsink, the beep is gone. Look at this craziness, did i screw it too hard? Maybe the pads just melted when they got hot, another learning. A straight bit of aluminium and FETs at an angle, not a good idea, uneven pressure. I wish I had my ceramic insulators, they are still in china post limbo. No, this was not the answer either, after a while i discovered THIS. The heatshrink had failed me, the heat softened it and the slight pressure from the alu bar caused a penetration, shorted straight to ground. Perhaps I will lift the PCBs higher so the lead is not under the bars, lets see. I will get some more fuses later tonight, I pray to the gods of magic blue electrin smoke all will be well. More to come very soon.
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Post by MartinT on Jun 1, 2016 14:08:23 GMT
Testing times!
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Post by MikeMusic on Jun 1, 2016 15:56:12 GMT
Best of luck
I find the answer often comes to me if I go away from the problem for a while, sometimes the following day
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Post by zappytheviking on Jun 1, 2016 18:00:07 GMT
Ok, new fuses in, no shorts to ground, immediately pops one of the 2 fuses at the power input. Any hints on what to check? At this moment my idea is to start removing components and measuring them, firstly the fets and then all the smaller semiconductors. My mind only comes up with that a large power draw is probably a fused open semiconductor, what do you guys think?
A side note, the one channel i got to listen too, having a hard time formulating an opinion. Maybe it just doesn't get in the way of the music. My olden pioneer AB amp adds things, like its forcing the midrange and the base is fuzzy. I will reserve all further ideas until i can spend an evening with the SECA, but I am intrigued after the 2min mono taste.
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Post by MartinT on Jun 1, 2016 18:02:58 GMT
A shorted output transistor is very likely. Can you isolate the channels, test each one separately? Before that, test all output devices for shorts. Then replace the fuses with, say, 10 ohm wirewound resistors which will give you a few seconds to see what's happening under quiescent conditions.
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Post by zappytheviking on Jun 1, 2016 18:41:00 GMT
Thanks man, will check the big boys first. I suppose I can just unplug the working channels power to take it out of the equation, it seems to be fine.. A wirewound DIY resistor, that would be a voltage drop to slow things down? Not sure what to measure , voltages? I suppose if it keeps going long enough the malfunctioning part will get hot and perhaps send a smoke signal . Will start with checking the transistors on the board. Will report back soon, learning is taking place.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2016 19:53:17 GMT
Have you used the insulators under the output transistors.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2016 19:53:38 GMT
Show us with a photo
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Post by zappytheviking on Jun 1, 2016 20:12:06 GMT
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Post by MartinT on Jun 2, 2016 6:50:56 GMT
That sounds like the problem side transistors have failed.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 2, 2016 7:01:29 GMT
Oh god another FET has gone to heaven, no the FET has died I suspect from the flash mark you had a short the soft pads you have in mind on e-pay are to be blunt crap,
Use these they are the best uk.farnell.com/aavid-thermalloy/4180g/thermal-insulator-to-218-to-247/dp/1577101 With a thin smear of heatsink compound and PLEASE DO NOT GET INTO YOUR EYES.Another tip FLAT plate will bend so it is best to use a square bar and this will provide a even pressure on the power devices, 6mm Sq should be good and large washers on screw heads, brass is best. As its expansion will be greater than the steel bolts and help to keep the device down hard.
Well today I am free from TQ after 2yrs of shit, they have paid me a tiny money for my shares (less than half a year salary) but I can now bring out new cables and electronics. Yipeeeee life is mine.
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