|
Post by dsjr on Feb 29, 2016 15:42:30 GMT
Yes, but a mechanical one rather than an electronic one Yes, I realise that. I've always associated doping with those heavily-coned BBC type speakers with slow, coloured midrange. I'm going to HAVE to dispute that statement - crash-hats on chaps and apologies in advance.......
The reason why EARLY BBC derived 2cu speakers had a supposed 'slow' sound was BC1 and BC2 drivers that were underdamped, not so much the well doped bextrene cone which actually gave a fine midrange and treble smoother than the evergreen Quad 57 (even Peter Walker himself acknowledged this I understand). You think these cones are heavy? Try 'weighing' in your hand an ATC SCM20 cone-coil assembly out of the drive unit. These weigh a ton and NEED the heavy power-sapping damping in the surround and suspension. The BC1 and sibling LS3/6 (the latter all but passed over by the BBC in preference to the then established BC1 for general 'noise box' duties) were early 70's designs and were never intended for high grade, let alone high level, monitoring. The midrange on these was NEVER EVER coloured - they just didn't go very loud and the loose bass swamped the fine mids if they were set too low (on their trolleys) and too close to the wall. The BBC often had them hanging from the ceiling, so around 5' off the ground angled down to the studio's work station...
The worst 'BBC derived' speaker for bad bass was the Rogers Studio 1 series and the big passive Chartwells and these really could boom if badly set up. The Beeb never bought any of these I believe The Spendor BC series actually had a very tactile midrange and the 100Hz 'honk' in the BC1 only, got better as the years went on - the SP1 was fine! Later smaller models from Rogers and Spendor weren't related to any BBC model so the tonal lushness they had was more for other markets than ours I think.
Sorry, I really think that BC1's and distant relatives have been tarred by a brush often wielded by the likes of 'flat-earth' people where visceral impact and 'speed' (lack of bass makes it sound 'fast') coupled with a squeaky upper mid (Kans, sorry Andrew ) became the thing. early Royds to me were a dreadfully lumpy and un-integrated bag of nails, the Sintras with their 5db too-high tweeter taking your fillings out on anything better than a LP12 in prime fruitbox era...
The drivers used in the Cubes are nothing like the Spendor and Rogers drivers. They're very stiffly suspended for a start and power handling for each size is not an issue. Adding the doping in various layers, mainly around the dust cap, does absolutely nothing to 'slow' the cone response to a signal at all I think, apart from frequencies probably over 1k (I'm guessing) which become progressively absorbed - it's a fairly hard doping. having this driver facing upwards also assists the overall response as heard and the result is never jangly or 'HiFi' although it took me a little while to get used to the slightly more 'ethereal' nature of the less 'projected at you' upper mid. In a suitable room environment, it's an enchanting listen, as Andrew should confirm and bass in ALL of them is tight, 'tuneful' and well defined.
|
|
|
Post by MartinT on Feb 29, 2016 15:48:05 GMT
Thanks for the clarification, Dave.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 29, 2016 18:33:40 GMT
It will be fun to experiment, but I have a feeling that I will prefer the bass unit with some doping. As supplied (doped) by NVA it's super fast and really tight. Kind of like Royds on 'roids if you like (sorry!)
The doped Royd bass units always sounded a bit opaque to me and seemed to suffer some overhang in comparison to their un-doped brethren. The doped Royds were more rounded tonally, but I actually preferred the more characterful undoped Edens and Sapphires for their musical honesty. Fitting un-doped drivers in Minstrels can be a serious upgrade IMO. Chucking out the wadding lifts them further.
I still have a sizeable exterior DIY job over the next fortnight, but after that I will hope to crack on.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2016 18:39:16 GMT
DIY job is now behind me, so I ordered the drivers and crossover components. Two Vifa D27 TG tweeters (because I like them) and two 5.25" Kevlar bass units. Also two 12 ohm wire-wound resistors and two Jantzen 3.9uf cross-caps. Finally, the rear 4mm sockets.
I will likely be using the same silver/copper speaker cable I like as internal wiring. I still need to order plastidip for doping the bass units and also something to stiffen the cabinets structurally. I may have to go with steel, but not before trying carbon fibre weave and curing it with epoxy resin. It's an itch I just have to scratch and can only add stiffness even if I subsequently add steel plate.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2016 17:00:54 GMT
It's taken a bit of time to get bits together, but I now have all the ingredients to put these together, apart from grilles which are in the post.
Here's what I have.
2 X 8" cube shaped wooden boxes 2 X 5.25" QTX Kevlar drivers 2 X vifa D27 TG 35-06 tweeters 2 X Jantzen Cross Caps 3.9uf 2 X wire wound resistors 5 watt 12 Ohm 4 X Deltron 4mm sockets 1 Metre carbon fibre sheet 1 bottle low viscosity resin 1 bottle hardener Various adhesives 4 X mapiln 6" speaker grilles 1 metre silver alloy 12 AWG cable for internal wiring
It might take a few days to find the motivation but I will be starting as soon as the mood takes me. Pics and update to follow.
|
|
|
Post by MartinT on Apr 7, 2016 7:22:10 GMT
A photo of all the bits would be great, Andrew. What did you decide on for the internal cabinet damping, I think you were considering sheet steel?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2016 16:42:11 GMT
I am going initially for the carbon fibre and resin approach. I don't doubt the advice from many years of experience that the weight from steel will also play a part in a good sound. I just want to try the low mass route for myself first. I have always been intrigued by Russ Andrews' use of Torlyte for cabinets. If low mass doesn't do it for me, I can always add steel on top and still benefit from the extra stiffness of carbon fibre. It's great that I have a pair of Cubettes here already, because I can compare the two. If I get anywhere close to their sound, I will be very pleased. It's really more about the fun of the build and the learning experience of usng different materials.
I have something on tomorrow, and a visitor coming sometime Saturday, but will hopefully get pics of the various assembled bits up over the weekend. I don't anticipate it taking that long to complete so I will likely post some more pics over the weekend as I progress, I have refurbed and restoted lots of bits over the years but I have never made anything from scratch before. I hope it's the first of many.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2016 13:13:06 GMT
Ok so I'm finally ready to get cracking. Here are some pics of the assemble bits:
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2016 13:15:40 GMT
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2016 13:16:27 GMT
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2016 13:19:17 GMT
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2016 13:20:06 GMT
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2016 13:21:18 GMT
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2016 13:28:07 GMT
I thought it might also help if I gave some approximate costings:
Cabinets £15 Bass units £12 Tweeters £25 Crossover components £10 4mm sockets £5 Grilles £8 Bison Kit glue £10 Internal wiring £5 Carbon fibre and resin £19 Total. £99
If I need to dope the drivers, some plastidip will be £11 and if I need to add steel damping it will be another £14
The total all in will then be £124. What can you buy new for that? Not much and certainly nothing I'd be happy to live with. As to whether I will be happy with my efforts: I hope so, but I'm in this for the journey more than the destination. Of course I can always revise doping, crossovers and damping until I get it good results. I already have the Cubettes as a compass.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2016 16:34:56 GMT
Holes now cut out. I've sat a pair of drivers in one just to show they actually fit
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2016 16:40:15 GMT
And with grilles. Should give an idea of the finished look.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2016 17:02:21 GMT
|
|
|
Post by ChrisB on Apr 9, 2016 17:37:58 GMT
What have you usd to cut the holes with Andrew? They're very neat.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2016 19:03:39 GMT
I cut them by hand using a compass cutter. The wood is soft, light and pretty thin, so it wasn't too hard. It's not that much more robust than Balsa and about half as heavy again.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2016 19:09:31 GMT
I'm done for the night, as the light is fading. I've cut the carbon fibre and tacked it in place with spray adhesive before coating with low viscosity polyester resin. It also drilled the four holes for the 4mm plugs. If anyone is working with carbon fibre weave, I can share a tip I leaned the hard way: put tape on any area you plan to cut, because the cut edges become very flyaway and it's hard to keep neat. The clues were there. The weave I was sent was taped on all its edges. Not the neatest job but I got by. If I had my time again I'd tale every edge. By the way, the flyaway bits are a bugger for drifting round your nose and mouth and itching. Also a PItA to hoover up. Hard to believe something so soft and fluffy can be made so stiff and hard with a bit of resin. ive coated them with resin, but I splashed the so of one cabinet. I have wiped it off some hope it doesn't stain.
|
|