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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2015 12:17:49 GMT
Wondering how I might improve what I already own (Usher Mini Dancer IIs) and have always been interested in exploring this path.
Have any of you experienced this? Did you design them yourselves or did you get someone trusted to do it for you? And did they design them blind or have access to your speakers to voice them?
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Post by John on Oct 12, 2015 12:39:47 GMT
I am a bit confused
Do you want to modify your speakers I would speak to someone like Tony C
What do you feel is missing
They are nice speakers I am not sure you need to mess around with the crossover
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2015 12:40:39 GMT
When i used to have my Passive Loudspeakers, i can safely say that if there was any upgrade i heard a direct difference it was Rebuilding my X-Overs.. Im not a believer in altering the design by modding the X-Over I also try not to swap out the Inductors unless they are crap then that's a different story..
My alltime prefrence for rebuilds was Ansar 'Supersound' caps & Mills 'MRA-12' Resistors {Try use the 12's over the 5's even if you dont need the additional wattage}
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Post by MartinT on Oct 12, 2015 12:41:41 GMT
Nice to see you around again, Martin!
I've been playing with the idea of upgrading my own Be-20 crossover components. The first thing to do is get hold of the circuit diagram. Then choose sympathetic components - not necessarily the most expensive. For instance, I prefer Auricaps over Claritycaps for their smoothness. Finally, rebuild as much as possible on the original circuit board, leaving the chokes alone as they are usually fine.
If you don't feel up to making a good job of it (and your speakers demand it), then have a company quote you for it. Over here, I would recommend Coherent Systems to do the work.
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Post by MartinT on Oct 12, 2015 12:43:42 GMT
P My alltime prefrence for rebuilds was Ansar 'Supersound' caps & Mills 'MRA-12' Resistors {Try use the 12's over the 5's even if you dont need the additional wattage} Yes to both, I used them when rebuilding my Gale crossovers. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2015 12:45:31 GMT
I am a bit confused Do you want to modify your speakers I would speak to someone like Tony C What do you feel is missing They are nice speakers I am not sure you need to mess around with the crossover Yes I want to upgrade the crossovers. The reason I want to do this is because I think I can get more out of them; I'd also consider taking a bit of the bottom end out of them (probably via DSP) and get a couple of subs, so they can concentrate on mids and highs. I don't need to mess with anything (it all sounds good as far as I'm concerned) but why let common sense stand in the way of fun  |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2015 12:47:05 GMT
Thanks Nexus and Martin, I was considering speaking to Tony about it. I wouldn't want to alter the crossover to do something 'different' but just improve what already inside. I'd also consider getting them externalised.
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ynwan
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Post by ynwan on Oct 12, 2015 13:01:01 GMT
I built these for my NS-1000Ms:  |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2015 13:04:25 GMT
Mark:
Looking at the precision edging on that granite base got me thinking if you used the same guy as i did for mine.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2015 13:16:24 GMT
I built these for my NS-1000Ms: Beautiful work, how did it sound compared to the stock ones? |
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Post by MartinT on Oct 12, 2015 13:17:19 GMT
I'd also consider taking a bit of the bottom end out of them (probably via DSP) and get a couple of subs Don't use DSP (you'll sap the life out of the whole sound), consider stuffing the ports as I did with mine (you'll see my Port Stuffing thread somewhere hereabouts). It's very effective to control and tighten the amount of bass output. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2015 13:18:06 GMT
This can bring really good improvements to an otherwise ordinary set of speakers, though just think about how your speaker sounds now, what you like about it and where you are looking for improvements.
No point in putting in expensive components if your system in not capable of demonstrating the benefits of such an upgrade.
Always remember to keep a balance in the system, having ultra clean Teflon cables and thick film resistors or further up the latter! may not be the way to go, rather look at a quality oil filled paper or film cap with ceramic high wattage low tolerance resistors, shorter pathways, improved cabling, also consider vibration damping, inductor types, also take into account that high quality products are usually larger so if you are tight for space or cannot obtain the correct size of Capacitor then you make have to parallel or series them which will take up more space. Marks crossovers are now external which can bring benefits and drawbacks, just think why you bought the speakers in the first palace because you liked x, y and Z
Don't change for changes shake, if you are going to make fundamental changes, maybe a change of speaker may prove more rewarding. Imho
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ynwan
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Post by ynwan on Oct 12, 2015 13:25:06 GMT
Mark: Looking at the precision edging on that granite base got me thinking if you used the same guy as i did for mine. Well, it's not impossible I guess - I got the granite from quite a large supplier in Worksop (I think it's Nero but can't remember exactly now). |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2015 13:31:24 GMT
I'd also consider taking a bit of the bottom end out of them (probably via DSP) and get a couple of subs Don't use DSP (you'll sap the life out of the whole sound), consider stuffing the ports as I did with mine (you'll see my Port Stuffing thread somewhere hereabouts). It's very effective to control and tighten the amount of bass output. Ive been using Dirac for sometime now and it helps to get rid of some horrible bass issues. I've heard a lot of people say they don't like dsp but ive enjoyed using it thoroughly! Thanks for the advice above Tony. |
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