steve
Rank: Trio
Posts: 206
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Post by steve on May 5, 2018 15:22:30 GMT
There are two build photos, as they were only supposed to be a knock up job for Owston and here they are:
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Post by MartinT on May 5, 2018 15:24:16 GMT
I feel some more Fane based speaker projects starting soon
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Post by Mr Whippy on May 5, 2018 15:28:42 GMT
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Post by steveeb on May 5, 2018 16:14:19 GMT
I feel some more Fane based speaker projects starting soon Absolutely! I've just sold my Fostex 206 drivers and dismantled their Sachiko cabinets....
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Post by MartinT on May 5, 2018 16:30:25 GMT
The Fostex FF125WK full range drivers used in my PC speakers are not bad at all. Where they have losses (but thankfully neither cuppiness nor brightness) they make up for in musicality. They have big magnets, too. They sound good driven near-field by the Q5.
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Post by karatestu on May 6, 2018 7:40:55 GMT
Thinking out loud. If one wanted to use these 12" drivers in semi omni mode then firing them upwards and say a tweeter on the front might work
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steve
Rank: Trio
Posts: 206
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Post by steve on May 6, 2018 8:28:52 GMT
Thinking out loud. If one wanted to use these 12" drivers in semi omni mode then firing them upwards and say a tweeter on the front might work They might work, but your tweeter would need to be a compression horn due to the efficiency of the main driver. Simply running your HF channels louder would probably fry your existing tweeter at the worst and at the best cause fizzing distortion. You'd have to run your bass channels louder too, to compensate for the main driver's higher efficiency but that would not be nearly as much of a problem, if any. This is assuming you'd be triamping the speakers. Passives would be a nightmare to match up the drivers' sensitivities and get a coherent sound. If you are doing passives, you'd be better off sticking with the Doc mod stuff you are using at present.
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Post by steveeb on May 6, 2018 10:07:27 GMT
Steve, I'm very interested to try these as I'm looking towards making a higher efficiency version of my Blackwoods and these meet the initial conditions I would look for. This would mean using the drivers forward facing but in a narrower, taller sealed cabinet and an upward firing tweeter. Did you calculate the cab yourself or have Scott do it?
Also, they are nice clamps you use, what make?
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Post by MikeMusic on May 6, 2018 10:34:07 GMT
Steve, I'm very interested to try these as I'm looking towards making a higher efficiency version of my Blackwoods and these meet the initial conditions I would look for. This would mean using the drivers forward facing but in a narrower, taller sealed cabinet and an upward firing tweeter. Did you calculate the cab yourself or have Scott do it? Also, they are nice clamps you use, what make? Clamp envy ! (They do look very nice bits of kit)
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Post by steveeb on May 6, 2018 10:45:15 GMT
Oh yes Mike, forget your fuses, cabinets sound waaay different depending on the clamps you use
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steve
Rank: Trio
Posts: 206
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Post by steve on May 6, 2018 10:58:00 GMT
Steve, I'm very interested to try these as I'm looking towards making a higher efficiency version of my Blackwoods and these meet the initial conditions I would look for. This would mean using the drivers forward facing but in a narrower, taller sealed cabinet and an upward firing tweeter. Did you calculate the cab yourself or have Scott do it? Also, they are nice clamps you use, what make? I calculated the cab myself It is a 78L box. Doing the initial sums on that driver, it came out at 354 litres tuned to 55hz Butterworth. Plainly ridiculous Trying different enclosure volumes, it seems that 80L is the point of diminishing returns. At 80 litres, I got a 60 Hz cutoff, increasing box size beyond that, shifts the cutoff barely at all (59 Hz @100l , 58 Hz @ 120L, 57 Hz @ 200L, 55Hz @ 350L). So why not just accept 60Hz and go from there, was my reasoning. OK, the system Q is 0.89 at that size, but to be perfectly honest, I never found raised Q to be a problem with the sealed designs I was doing in the late 70s, with cheap paper cone drivers, cabs rammed up against walls, provided said Q didn't go above 1. In real life in the room, it seems my late 70s experiences with sealed boxes still hold true: no boom, no unevenness at the bottom, period! OK so they don't generate earthquake bass, you cant have high efficiency, a cab this size and sub bass, but they make ruddy good music. Clamps are Magnusson from B&Q, so they could probably be obtained a bit cheaper trade, but they do an excellent job.
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steve
Rank: Trio
Posts: 206
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Post by steve on May 6, 2018 11:01:18 GMT
Oh yes Mike, forget your fuses, cabinets sound waaay different depending on the clamps you use Never thought of that: audiophile clamps, there must be a market there.
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Post by steveeb on May 6, 2018 11:08:37 GMT
Thanks Steve. I'd take a balanced output down to 60 over a token gesture towards sub bass any day. Close to wall placement would be intended.
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steve
Rank: Trio
Posts: 206
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Post by steve on May 6, 2018 11:20:05 GMT
Thanks Steve. I'd take a balanced output down to 60 over a token gesture towards sub bass any day. Close to wall placement would be intended. I'd think you'd be good to go with 78-80L then; no trouble.
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steve
Rank: Trio
Posts: 206
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Post by steve on May 8, 2018 16:41:06 GMT
The speakers have a name: I mean it had to be, didn't it :lol:
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Post by MartinT on May 8, 2018 17:27:29 GMT
LOL, I remember I made some IPL badges for the S5TL speakers I built with my Dad a lifetime ago. It kinda completes them!
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Post by Mr Whippy on May 8, 2018 17:44:48 GMT
Did the bleed resistors have any sonic impact?
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steve
Rank: Trio
Posts: 206
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Post by steve on May 8, 2018 18:13:31 GMT
None that I could hear.
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Post by Mr Whippy on May 8, 2018 18:36:07 GMT
OK. Thanks. Decades ago I investigated them in a DIY amp - but I can't remember what the outcome was now.
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steve
Rank: Trio
Posts: 206
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Post by steve on May 8, 2018 18:43:53 GMT
I just use them to make sure the caps discharge on switch-off. I've been zapped a few times in the past and it can be a real OOYABASTAD moment.
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