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Post by SteveC on Nov 5, 2021 18:18:24 GMT
Of course, if you read it on the internet ............... it must be correct!
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Post by julesd68 on Nov 5, 2021 18:54:50 GMT
LOL - you will note that I didn't assume the concept was correct, that's why I was asking the question!
Anyway, I can imagine it all sounds fantastic - I have had the pleasure of hearing the TAD speakers a couple of times and they are exceptional. Am sure the amps must be just as good.
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Post by SteveC on Nov 5, 2021 19:10:28 GMT
Jules If it wasn't a recommended way of doing things, I doubt that TAD would advocate passive horizontal bi-amping in their literature! I don't know about the "Y" connector in this diagram, I would bet that taking a connection from a second set of preamp main outputs (as I have) would be a preferable option.  B46E70F5-ED64-44CB-B30D-A27974DE590A by , on Flickr |
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Post by MartinT on Nov 5, 2021 19:31:26 GMT
Rather than a Y adapter, I would have a set of Y interconnects custom made. Coherent 6D, preferably.
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Post by ChrisB on Nov 5, 2021 22:05:28 GMT
Been doing it for about 20 years. Wouldn't change back
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Post by karatestu on Nov 6, 2021 7:13:44 GMT
The great thing about having one power amp per speaker driver is you can use passive line level filters (as long as 1st or 2nd order works for you and your speakers). It is much better (ime) than speaker level filtering. You get to use very small capacitors and hopefully music loving polystyrene rather than coke can sized polypropylene caps which cost an arm and a leg (if you are serious about this hobby).
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Post by karatestu on Nov 6, 2021 7:46:45 GMT
Forgot to say with passive line level xovers you don't have to use evil ringing inductors. It's tiny film capacitors all the way.
Plus your power amps already have these filters in them. A high pass to block DC and a low pass to stop rfi etc. All you have to do is change the capacitor values. No components added is the ultimate purist approach. Every component has a sound and it is always bad compared to no component.
I use a small EI transformer on the tweeter amps. Because of the high pass filter before them they only have to amplify the frequencies that the filter allows. No power sapping low frequencies to spoil the pudding.
If you are lucky enough to have speakers designed for 1st order filters then passive line level is the ultimate. And you don't have to worry about how the reactive xover components are reacting with the reactive driver (capacitance and inductance).
Although speakers with high order filters claim to be phase Coherent you can clearly hear the effect compared to 1st order or no filters at all (full range drivers).
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Post by MikeMusic on Nov 7, 2021 10:53:03 GMT
Hadn't crossed my mind to use two TAD 2500s Better with two but not value for money ? If you haven't already you really must try the Coherent BD jumper cables when you go back to one 2500 One of the biggest surprises and differences I have ever heard in my system Are those Townshend speaker stands new since we visited ? As you probably know the 2500 takes a 12V trigger cable to turn off. Great if your Pre or CD set up can send the signal Hi Mike VFM is relative to the price paid! As you are aware, from our last telephone conversation, the TAD M2500 MKII I purchased, was a 2 yr old, mint condition model for a third of the new price and the second M2500 MKII I have on home loan and am considering purchasing, is also ex-dem, in excellent condition and considerably cheaper than the cost of a brand-new model! So, two TAD M2500's for the price of a single new one! My jumper cables are Coherent 6D, the same as the speaker cables. The BD may be better, but are also considerably more expensive! Yes. The Townshend Podiums are a recent acquisition. Size 4, new from an Ebay dealer, for £1800. When you next come over, bring the BD jumpers with you and I can then see if any difference is worth the outlay! My guess is the BD jumpers will be better than 6D but nowhere near the huge jump up from the TAD own jumpers. |
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Post by SteveC on Nov 7, 2021 14:24:18 GMT
Hi Mike VFM is relative to the price paid! As you are aware, from our last telephone conversation, the TAD M2500 MKII I purchased, was a 2 yr old, mint condition model for a third of the new price and the second M2500 MKII I have on home loan and am considering purchasing, is also ex-dem, in excellent condition and considerably cheaper than the cost of a brand-new model! So, two TAD M2500's for the price of a single new one! My jumper cables are Coherent 6D, the same as the speaker cables. The BD may be better, but are also considerably more expensive! Yes. The Townshend Podiums are a recent acquisition. Size 4, new from an Ebay dealer, for £1800. When you next come over, bring the BD jumpers with you and I can then see if any difference is worth the outlay! My guess is the BD jumpers will be better than 6D but nowhere near the huge jump up from the TAD own jumpers. In Bi-amp mode, you remove the jumpers completely! Also, superior performance from using a preamp with dual main outputs, than configuring a "Y' cable to split the signal to two amplifiers! |
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Post by petea on Nov 7, 2021 16:40:07 GMT
Interesting outcome, Steve and it all looks rather impressive. Where did you position the second sub? And the item that everyone seems to be ignoring is the question of the 2 large rats!  |
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Post by SteveC on Nov 7, 2021 17:37:04 GMT
Interesting outcome, Steve and it all looks rather impressive. Where did you position the second sub? And the item that everyone seems to be ignoring is the question of the 2 large rats! Hi Pete The second REL G2 is in the diagonally opposite corner of the room, wedged in among the AV system! Sooner or later (when my back feels stronger) I might hook it out and place it to the left side of the left speaker, so that the sub arrangement is symmetrical! It landed where it is, because I had to sneak it into the house without Irene noticing that I had acquired, yet another sub (the Velodyne DD15 it displaced, is back in it's box for the time being)! The diagonal corner arrangement seems to work very well in smoothing out any nulls and peaks, resulting in an even in-room bass response. I cross them over quite low (30Hz) with volume about 14/15 (having remote control makes for easy adjustment of crossover, gain and phase, from the listening position). As for the "2 large rats!" - being a lover of all things foo, I borrowed these Entreq Apollo XL Vibb Eaters (7.5 Kg each) to experiment with adding mass to different system components, including amps and subs. They are filled with some "magic" sand with a high concentration of precious metals, known only to Entreq and claim to improve the sound by drawing vibration from the equipment that they are placed on and dissipating it as heat! My ears told me that they were most beneficial on top of speaker enclosures. As inert as the TAD enclosures are, you can feel vibration on the head of each "rat" when music is playing. Theres probably a scientific explanation to it, which involves mass loading or some such thing! They do elicit comment though!   92FC8B8A-BC56-4689-82E4-4C397942BCFF_1_201_a by , on Flickr |
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Post by petea on Nov 7, 2021 18:28:17 GMT
I thought folks were just being too polite to mention your 'rat problem'! I have my Rel subs on a Townsend Podium in the UK and on Townsend Speaker Bars in Germany (as they have one down-firing driver that is almost certainly never activated, but I thought I'd play it safe). I have no idea if that has helped though as I never tried them without. Hearing yours pushed me to finally try a sub in the system and it is doing exactly what I always hoped one would. |
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