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Post by jachawk on Jul 7, 2020 17:58:02 GMT
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Post by John on Jul 7, 2020 18:36:21 GMT
It always nice to create I hope you get many years of happy listening from the Turntable
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Post by MartinT on Jul 7, 2020 18:40:53 GMT
Nice bit of woodworking there, Mike.
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Post by jachawk on Jul 7, 2020 18:51:45 GMT
It always nice to create I hope you get many years of happy listening from the Turntable I've always had a soft spot for the TD160 and with a bit of fettling the issues with the crap original plinth, baseboard etc. can be sorted
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Post by jachawk on Jul 7, 2020 18:53:10 GMT
Nice bit of woodworking there, Mike. Unfortunately not my handy work i'm afraid, i got a local cabinet maker to knock it up for me.
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Post by ChrisB on Jul 7, 2020 19:00:56 GMT
That's a chunky lump of oak!
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Post by jachawk on Jul 7, 2020 19:17:50 GMT
That's a chunky lump of oak! ohhhh yes it is, my Kralk speakers are oak veneered with black leather baffles, the TD160 will match once i get the black anodised top plate
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Post by Mr Whippy on Jul 7, 2020 20:01:06 GMT
Some recommend fitting a block (or circle) of wood Around the bearing. Might like to experiment with magnets around the bearing to lift the shaft off the floor.
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Post by jachawk on Jul 7, 2020 20:11:11 GMT
Some recommend fitting a block (or circle) of wood Around the bearing. Might like to experiment with magnets around the bearing to lift the shaft off the floor. i've wrapped the bearing with bitumen it should do the same think i hope.
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Post by jachawk on Jul 7, 2020 20:31:17 GMT
The other thing i'm going to do is fit 4 adjustable feet to the 30mm birch ply block the TT is sitting on, one of the issues with sprung decks like this is that everything needs to be perfectly level when you balance them and when the deck is finally in your listening room, otherwise you don't get them performing at their best, with an adjustable base to stand the deck on life should be easier in that respect.
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Post by jandl100 on Jul 8, 2020 2:31:51 GMT
That looks great, one of the best owner designed plinths I've seen.
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Post by jachawk on Jul 8, 2020 12:41:33 GMT
So i've got it set up, balanced and all working well, apart from a hum from the speakers which you start to hear when the volume is at between 9 and 10 o'clock, not noticeable during loud passages but during quieter parts it's noticeable. The arm is secondhand and came with a turntable i bought and once i lifted it out of the TT i noticed that A. it had been rewired which i'm happy about and B. the shielding can and cable connector are missing with the cable being quite badly soldered on to the connection plate at the base of the tonearm, would this cause the hum???
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Post by MartinT on Jul 8, 2020 13:44:43 GMT
The arm needs to be grounded, which perhaps it's not? Use a separate wire, not the signal cable screen.
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Post by Mr Whippy on Jul 8, 2020 13:58:07 GMT
The arm mount on the B/BC is plastic. Hard to see what yours is. The sub-chassis isn't earthed with the top plate.
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Post by jachawk on Jul 8, 2020 14:31:09 GMT
The arm mount is plywood, the top plate is earthed but not the sub chassis isn't
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Post by Mr Whippy on Jul 8, 2020 17:06:45 GMT
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Post by jachawk on Jul 18, 2020 7:45:50 GMT
And now a few photo's with the new top plate The arm is working remarkably well but needs new phono leads making so that's a job for the coming week, also the wooden arm boards doesn't seem to be deep enough to allow me to balance the deck properly so i've ordered a new acrylic one from The Vinyl Source, hopefully it stands off the deck sufficiently enough to allow the sub chassis to move unhindered.
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Post by ChrisB on Jul 18, 2020 8:43:30 GMT
What about getting a curved profile on the edges of the armboard? That would keep the gap between board and top plate small and neat but allow for movement both up and down with a little bit of lateral shift. (If I am understanding the problem correctly from your description).
Someone with a router could do that for you fairly quickly, I would have thought.
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Post by jachawk on Jul 18, 2020 9:07:01 GMT
This armboard i have Chris came off a deck i bought and it's made of ply, it looks like 2 pieces 1 stuck on top of the other with the deeper part able to go through the aperture on the TT and sit on the sub chassis, this is then held in place by 3 screws from the other side of the sub chassis, to my mind the part of the armboard which goes through the aperture needs to be thicker so that the the bit you can see sticks up a bit further so that when the platter is put in place and the deck settles the top part of the armboard doesn't touch the top plate.
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Post by Mr Whippy on Jul 18, 2020 9:34:59 GMT
You could use spacers, or threaded bolts with nuts as spacers. Last one I had the mount was a piece of 3mm steel plate that I used with 1/2" steel spacers. Worked ok for me.
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