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Post by MikeMusic on Dec 24, 2014 10:38:47 GMT
Black first for me Rosewood nice, second More likely is to make up some panels for my silver/non black kit to make it go 'dark'
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Post by Deleted on Dec 24, 2014 10:39:39 GMT
I bought some burr walnut for a pair of Snell Ks. I cut the pieces to size to produce handed cabinets but it was so crinkly and stiff I didn't have the nerve to attempt it. I still have the veneer stored and the next pair of tatty Ks that come my way will get the treatment. I will need to research it though, because it appears to be beyond my current skill level.
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Post by id4578 on Dec 24, 2014 11:05:34 GMT
Beforehand I've used some kind of ebony stain from a local diy store, dabbed it on with a small bit of cloth so that it soaks in and do it until it's black enough, then rubbed off any excess from the good veneer, let it dry and then follow up by rubbing in some kind of oil/wax combo (Rustins Scratch Remover is a good basic one for lots of things - is some mix of waxes and oil).
Black felt-tips turn purple after a while - never works. shoe polish just sits on top. wipes off and doesn't really stain it properly and then again doesn't quite match the colour - on shoes you have to reapply as it wears off, so it's kind of temporary in my view.
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Post by MikeMusic on Dec 24, 2014 13:02:46 GMT
I bought some burr walnut for a pair of Snell Ks. I cut the pieces to size to produce handed cabinets but it was so crinkly and stiff I didn't have the nerve to attempt it. I still have the veneer stored and the next pair of tatty Ks that come my way will get the treatment. I will need to research it though, because it appears to be beyond my current skill level. I avoid most DIY through lack of skill, time and Murphy's Law. I'd never try anything that serious I am quite good at shovelling up molehills and clearing gutters
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Post by MikeMusic on Dec 24, 2014 13:05:36 GMT
Beforehand I've used some kind of ebony stain from a local diy store, dabbed it on with a small bit of cloth so that it soaks in and do it until it's black enough, then rubbed off any excess from the good veneer, let it dry and then follow up by rubbing in some kind of oil/wax combo (Rustins Scratch Remover is a good basic one for lots of things - is some mix of waxes and oil). Black felt-tips turn purple after a while - never works. shoe polish just sits on top. wipes off and doesn't really stain it properly and then again doesn't quite match the colour - on shoes you have to reapply as it wears off, so it's kind of temporary in my view. Fortunately for me these are my 2nd system Isobariks, not looked at much closely With time and the will that's another I can try, thanks
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2015 20:28:27 GMT
I used black permanent marker on my Linn Nexus which worked but was still a little obvious in certain lights, with the Epos there are a couple of marks but I decided just to leave them because they're not that obvious and I didn't want to permanent damage them.
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Post by MikeMusic on Apr 12, 2015 11:12:10 GMT
I have to go back to mine and see the spots where I used a marker pen If I can't find them it worked !
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2015 11:28:52 GMT
I bought some burr walnut for a pair of Snell Ks. I cut the pieces to size to produce handed cabinets but it was so crinkly and stiff I didn't have the nerve to attempt it. I still have the veneer stored and the next pair of tatty Ks that come my way will get the treatment. I will need to research it though, because it appears to be beyond my current skill level. It depends on how crinkly it is. If not too crinkly, the standard method is to gather together a bucket with some warm water and a sponge or cloth and an iron. Put the veneer on a flat surface, and gently soak one surface, turn it over and wet the other surface. Now gently iron it. The idea is to force water into the wood fibres. It takes several goes, soaking ironing, soaking ironing. The term is to get the wood to "give up", and go flat and very flexible - a bit like thin cardboard. I hope you cut it oversize - you need to bond it to the surface, and then use a scalpel or stanley knife blade to cut it flush. If it is really crinkly, it is not easy at all - I suggest you do a web search - it involves forcing a witches brew of white wood glue and various other things into it in a press between sheets of newspaper.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2015 14:28:06 GMT
Thanks for that, Craig. I cut it larger but only by about 3-4 mm all round. Dope fully it should be enough. It really is very crinkly, so I guess it will be a challenge to see who "give up" first: me or the veneer
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