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Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2014 12:58:33 GMT
It's only a pre. You'll need your own power, although at a pinch I will have Cageys P10 with me  Good grief, a bake off sort of thing. Who'dathoughtit at Nodrog Towers.  |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2014 13:30:51 GMT
What does the red 75% under Dr Bunsen's avatar mean?
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Post by pinkie on Jul 16, 2014 13:46:39 GMT
What does the red 75% under Dr Bunsen's avatar mean? See the moderation thread for lots more details  |
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Post by pinkie on Jul 16, 2014 13:51:23 GMT
It's only a pre. You'll need your own power, although at a pinch I will have Cageys P10 with me Good grief, a bake off sort of thing. Who'dathoughtit at Nodrog Towers. If I get it finished. Poor Owen has suffered this week - not least because I have become completely paranoid about mains safety and earthing. Actually, I owe the Muppet scientist a big thank you, because if I hadn't got interested in transformers and ground / earth, I suspect I would have failed to ground the zero volt centre tap on the transformer. I believe I now have a VERY thorough understanding of these things. As well as RCBO's. Hopefully fire it up by the weekend, now I have discovered there is already a 1 watt 100ohm resistor to earth on the board, to go in series with switch light and its connection to one rail of the secondary (Get Alan to think about it for you).  |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2014 13:54:11 GMT
What does the red 75% under Dr Bunsen's avatar mean? See the moderation thread for lots more details I think it means that his battery is 75% charged, or maybe not  |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2014 13:55:20 GMT
Doc, don't get yourself banned mate!
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Post by Dr Bunsen Honeydew on Jul 16, 2014 14:20:01 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2014 14:53:41 GMT
Good grief, a bake off sort of thing. Who'dathoughtit at Nodrog Towers. Hopefully fire it up by the weekend, now I have discovered there is already a 1 watt 100ohm resistor to earth on the board, to go in series with switch light and its connection to one rail of the secondary (Get Alan to think about it for you). Well it sure as hell wouldn't be worth me even trying to think about it |
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Bonky
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Post by Bonky on Mar 12, 2018 12:39:25 GMT
Just seen this thread...very interesting .
I would start (as indeed I did) with the Sinclair Pro60, not because of its technical expertise but because it got so many of us interested in DIY (soldering those damm DIN plugs and sockets) and was a useful 'first step'. I agree that the Sinclair Neoteric was a much better amp and still lauded today. (I never realised it was Class'D').
The NAD 3020 and the Audiolab 8000A would also get a mention in my book as would the Sugden A21.
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Post by naim1425 on Mar 12, 2018 13:03:02 GMT
Arcam delta 90 amp with phono,seamed to drive anything I plugged into it,the whole delta range was ok
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2018 14:04:36 GMT
Krell KSA50 (original) deserves my vote. Once heard, never forgotten. The other Krells I've owned and heard just didn't have the magic.
Naim chrome bumper amps: They defined a decade or more as the top of the tree for so many aspiring audiophiles. They also made compelling music.
Exposure JF amps: What can I say? Better than Naim and oh so rhythmic. The blood still,pulses when I think of them.
Audio Innovations Series 300. This almost forgotten gem possible for starting so many people back on the road to valves, and not the pipe and slippers variety either. This little beauty used the humble ECL86 to breathe fire as life into Snells, especially if there was a Voyd upstream. It was the Nait of the valve revival AFAIC. I will own and treasure one again someday.
Musical Fidelity A1: Described very accurately as "a little slice of heaven" and noted for its liquid sound, this Tim De Paravicini design is shockingly good when you give it a chance to shine. It also had a big hand in raising "class A" sound amongst hifi entnusiasts. Is it class A? Tim De P says is is and that's good wnough for me. It's certainly In the top class sonically if you pair it well.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2018 14:23:01 GMT
Just seen this thread...very interesting . I would start (as indeed I did) with the Sinclair Pro60, not because of its technical expertise but because it got so many of us interested in DIY (soldering those damm DIN plugs and sockets) and was a useful 'first step'. I agree that the Sinclair Neoteric was a much better amp and still lauded today. (I never realised it was Class'D'). The NAD 3020 and the Audiolab 8000A would also get a mention in my book as would the Sugden A21. Sugden have done so well with the A21. The A21a was a remarkable amp but the SE was significantly better. All are fab though and I would be very happy to live with one for ever. |
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Post by Chris on Mar 12, 2018 16:32:46 GMT
I'm not knowledgeable enough to answer properly here but I agree with the NAD 3020. There's one in the museum in Edinburgh.
I reckon the Ongaku must be up there and maybe an early Radford valve design. I also think Colin Wonfors designs must be quite up there and have a place.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2018 21:23:42 GMT
There was a Claymore in the Science Museum in London in the 90's, it was holding desk up I think.
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Post by southall1998 on Mar 12, 2018 21:43:33 GMT
Not the best amp in the world. Both Rega's Brio-R & newer model represent good value for money. For well under 700 quid, you get stunning build quality and performance. Hard to explain the sound, the Rega just shuts up and gets on with playing the music. No attention seeking nonsense here!
More than capable to put both Nait 1 and 2 to shame!!
S.
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