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Post by MartinT on May 7, 2020 13:06:02 GMT
John and Vic (Terminator) have worked together on these open baffles.
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Post by jandl100 on May 7, 2020 13:13:42 GMT
zero baffle ...  |
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Post by John on May 7, 2020 13:16:12 GMT
My speaker journey has been very much inspired by the improvements I heard over the years from Vic
We using Faitals drivers but Vic added a few 4 inch drivers to the party. A few people have gone down a similar route none of us have been disappointed
They are not commercially available
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Post by Mr Whippy on May 7, 2020 15:30:23 GMT
I have a pair of Leak 600s which have 15" drivers. They don't sound anything special, and I was thinking about a skeleton type adaption. Only have the two drivers though and not four, which I'd rather have.
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Post by MartinT on May 7, 2020 16:25:09 GMT
Buy another pair of Leak 600s?
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Post by Mr Whippy on May 7, 2020 16:48:31 GMT
Getting too old for the humping about with big boxes. I have a pair of these, and I can hardly lift them!  |
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Post by John on May 7, 2020 16:57:47 GMT
I will update the links and write a bit about using the scaffold frame approach over the next few days
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Post by John on May 8, 2020 6:58:48 GMT
Scaffold Frame approach
The approach is radical, and most people struggle to get their heads around that it actually might work. You have to to do things a bit differently but then traditional Open Baffle approach. But doing this you become free from colouration from the baffle itself, leaving you with a clean and open sound.
One of the most significant changes is not worrying as much about high QTS something considered essential for Open Baffle bass but instead, look for high Xmax (this is the movement of the Cone). To power the bass drivers you will need a lot of watts and add some, e.g. boost in the low bass region but the effect is with the right driver a Loudspeaker capable of subsonic bass. That is fast and has that natural timbre.
Bass drivers are faced the opposite as gives more directionality so less room sensitive. I have tried the bass drivers both ways, and facing the opposite direction makes sense.
I am using mini scaffold tubes where the drivers suspended, further isolating the drivers. I use Faital Pro 3FE22 - 3" 20W 16 Ohm drivers for the mid and treble.
The most significant drawbacks are the looks and everybody thinking you gone mad.
I think only a handful of people have tried or heard this approach. I am undoubtedly surprised how far it has progressed in the short spam I have been exploring this approach.
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Post by jandl100 on May 8, 2020 9:38:11 GMT
If I had to choose just one system to visit from all those I have read and heard about, it would be yours, John! Fascinating and baffling (oops, what an unintended pun!  ). |
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Post by Eduardo Wobblechops on May 8, 2020 12:30:47 GMT
Good stuff John. Have been to Vic’s to listen to his version with the PRV drivers which was very impressive, the bass is epic!
If the newer drivers better the PRV’s they must be very good indeed.
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Post by Eduardo Wobblechops on May 8, 2020 12:33:06 GMT
I do similar with my Bastanis, plan is to follow the scaffolded design with the twin 18” per side but use the mid and top drivers from the Bastanis.
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Post by John on May 8, 2020 16:11:54 GMT
Good stuff John. Have been to Vic’s to listen to his version with the PRV drivers which was very impressive, the bass is epic! If the newer drivers better the PRV’s they must be very good indeed. The difference is not subtle I think you would like I think he now has drivers that match the bass in terms of effortless scale and detail |
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Post by John on May 8, 2020 16:14:16 GMT
I do similar with my Bastanis, plan is to follow the scaffolded design with the twin 18” per side but use the mid and top drivers from the Bastanis. I am looking forward to seeing how you get on Ali |
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Post by Clive on May 8, 2020 18:29:15 GMT
Good stuff John. Have been to Vic’s to listen to his version with the PRV drivers which was very impressive, the bass is epic! If the newer drivers better the PRV’s they must be very good indeed./private/var/mobile/Containers/Data/Application/3091B6FD-C7B2-4C8B-80F3-B9D476EE0A36/tmp/103643A6-932A-4EC5-B841-9255F1C74C65/Image The difference is not subtle I think you would like I think he now has drivers that match the bass in terms of effortless scale and detail Sounds a bit familiar but with a wood frame in this case.  |
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Post by John on May 9, 2020 5:46:25 GMT
The bass drivers are wired Push-pull so the waves are not cancelling each other out. It seems by facing them firing backwards they are causing fewer room modes, therefore giving clean bass. This is simply achieved by the back driver's connectors going red to negative and black to live and the front going red to live and black to neutral.
Bass depth is very much dependent on the bass driver so for those that like really low bass something like the Dayton UM18 or 15 is the way to go.
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Post by MartinT on May 9, 2020 11:14:44 GMT
So you're using expansion pressure waves now, not isobarik connection?
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Post by John on May 9, 2020 11:59:48 GMT
They joined together facing each other
You have to wire one out of phase for this setup to work
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Post by John on May 9, 2020 12:01:48 GMT
I add a picture later
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Post by MartinT on May 9, 2020 12:39:14 GMT
Yes, what I'm saying is that you are now using the drivers as both expanding and then both compressing, giving enhancement with no cancellation. I thought previously you were wired isobarik where cancellation would happen around the edges.
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Post by John on May 9, 2020 13:30:58 GMT
This is a good description of how it is working
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).
