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Post by carlsworkshop on Nov 9, 2014 20:34:18 GMT
That is a bloody Monster Chris, and uglier than a Pug suppin Custard....!!! Don't hold back,say what you really think !
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Post by carlsworkshop on Nov 9, 2014 20:37:01 GMT
Great that you got the plinth Its a monster plinth but I heard a few set up this way and is worth the effort. A lot of work must of gone into that plinth. Be great if we could see some photos of the build. Photos to follow ,will try and post some tomorrow
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Post by ChrisB on Nov 9, 2014 20:38:22 GMT
That would be great Carl.
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Post by carlsworkshop on Nov 9, 2014 21:03:39 GMT
sorry but i dot get how to upload pictures ,help please !
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Post by Paul Barker on Nov 9, 2014 21:10:53 GMT
No expert on this forum, but what I do in general and it works here.
Get a free photobucket account. Upload your pictures to your photobucket. Within photobucket copy the html code for the picture link and insert it into the code version of these pages. You can't see the code in a quick replay, you have to click full reply. One of the options allows you to enter html code, they call it BBCode but it may just be H TML renamed. Copy the correct code from photobucket and your picture just appears. Click the Review tag to change from BBcode view to the preview where you see how it will appear if you do post it.
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Post by MartinT on Nov 9, 2014 21:13:16 GMT
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Post by ChrisB on Nov 9, 2014 21:51:22 GMT
Don't work in the Quick reply pane but go to the full reply option. Copy the URL of your image then past it into the dialogue box you get when you click this button which you'll see in the control panel above the message box. That's it! I copied the URL from one of your images on LH to check they're working OK with the TAS software. It's fine.
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Post by carlsworkshop on Nov 10, 2014 15:05:00 GMT
Thanks Chris . It's all new to me . I'll have a go at it tonight if I get time but feel free to use any of the pics on LH in the mean time . The inserts are 4m threaded btw . Thanks again
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Post by ChrisB on Nov 10, 2014 19:41:56 GMT
Here's a photo for Martin..... G99 and Ultracraft
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Post by MartinT on Nov 10, 2014 20:10:42 GMT
Yay! Is it running? How does it sound?
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Post by ChrisB on Nov 10, 2014 20:16:40 GMT
No sorry, that was a bit of a teaser! The photo does show intent though. Carl made me an armboard for it and the different geometry of the two arms is the reason for the Zeta having to be offset from the centre of its board. This is one of the reasons for the plinth being so big. I understand that, because of it's size, the sorting office at Lancaster have decided to give it it's own postcode - LA99!
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Post by ChrisB on Nov 10, 2014 20:22:51 GMT
I got everything properly fastened down today. I got some threaded inserts and some suitable M6 machine screws. Terrified that I would screw up the lovely veneer job, I drilled and inserted the bejeezus out of a piece of scrap wood until I was confident enough to do it properly. Getting the chassis properly coupled has made a great difference to the performance.
Feet next.
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Post by MartinT on Nov 10, 2014 22:17:35 GMT
No sorry, that was a bit of a teaser! Spoil sport!
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Post by ChrisB on Nov 11, 2014 0:17:01 GMT
Here are some of the details of the build. (taken, with Carl's permission, from a thread at Lenco Heaven)
Producing templates for each plinth layer - the actual plinth comes later.Its a practical approach,no design software needed ! If possible its good to have an original mounting template,you can be sure of the dimensions that way. I make a copy on draft paper and use the copy to transfer the cut out to the mdf/ply template material . A template is useful as it allows a little experimentation without ruining the expensive stuff,once done it will also allow you to reproduce the design without starting from scratch. So , step 1, the layout.I had previously made a template for the GL88 and knowing it was essentially the same i used it as a basis for this project. The template material is mdf measuring 600 mm x 480 mm . The final sizing is done with a router using the pencil line as the finished edge to aim for. The router will give a vertical edge and a very clean cut. Try the turntable for fit and check its position relative to the spindle position. Again drill your holes and jig and router it. Happy with that i could move on to the motor cavity. I used the second layer as a guide and used the flush trim router bit to reproduce the part a wanted to keep. The rest was done free hand and after 2 or 3 attempts i arrived at a satisfactory cut out. I then cut motor cavity in the remaining layers using the flush trim bit I cut the cable exit in layer 3 and rounded out the bearing position. Put the bits together and had a look,checking for fit. Then a slightly smaller hole beneath for the arm pillar and armboard support. Next to round the corners. Here i used another template i had made and the flush trim bit. Once i had done the 4 corners of one layer i could then use that as the template for the rest. These templates can now be used to make the plinth proper using the same methods but without the hit and miss element. The above work took 9 hrs from start to finish. Using the templates in future plinths will reduce the time to produce the cut out to about 4 hours. Of course that is only a part of the work involved.Once glued and clamped the finishing stage begins. This can take anything from a day to 3 or 4 days depending on specs. Time for tea !
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Post by carlsworkshop on Nov 11, 2014 2:06:11 GMT
Cheers Chris, i.o.u a pint !
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Post by John on Nov 11, 2014 6:02:18 GMT
I love seeing these builds Great work
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Post by MartinT on Nov 11, 2014 7:10:32 GMT
Great storyboard, thanks!
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Post by ChrisB on Nov 11, 2014 7:13:58 GMT
With the templates created, Carl moved on to the actual plinth itself. (Again, this is taken, with Carl's permission, from a thread at Lenco Heaven) Creating the final layersSo this afternoon work on the plinth proper began .There's a way to go yet but its shaping up nicely ! The pan recess.The idea being to get 10 mm between the top and second layer so the circular area of the chassis below the platter (that the bearing is mounted to) is in intimate contact with the high mass plinth. Corners and armboard stuff Showing the likely position of the Zeta with 2nd layer detail. Showing the armboard cavity and 9 inch pivot to headshell dimension giving the likely position of the headshell.
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Post by ChrisB on Nov 11, 2014 7:36:02 GMT
More from Carl.......Gluing up the layersI have spent most of the day preparing the plinth for gluing. I realized i had made a cock up with the position of the power socket inlet. I wanted it at layer 3 and had done it at layer 4 from the bottom. After cursing fluently i bit the bullet and cut a new layer. Better than compromising i suppose. I then needed to tweak the second layer to compensate for the 5 mm difference between template and plinths top layer. I could then glue and clamp it. This process can be a bit tricky. The main problem i have found is that the layers want to slip away from each other when you apply pressure with the clamps. This would lead to a lot of extra and unnecessary work . T stop this slippage i have found that using a rubbed jointing technique will keep the layers in position. All this involves is sliding the two layers being glued against each other until they grip.Then align them and wipe away any excess glue with a damp rag. Use plenty of glue ( a good quality pva works ) on one surface only or you wont get them to grip. Glue em all up and proceed to clamp the beast. Clamp symmetrically front/back ,left right etc. Initially apply only enough pressure so that the clamp stays in place.Fit all the clamps and then gradually increase the pressure ,working each clamp in turn ,slowly bring them up to te point where they squeeze out the excess glue. Dont over tighten them.I stop when they feel as though i would have to apply more force than i can comfortably apply using a normal grip. Not very scientific but you can feel when its enough. The clamps can be removed the following day, leave it at least 12 hours. Then comes the joy of finishing ! So out of the clamps it emerged ! Going for the full veneer ! a quick snap ! A good 6 hours work,it needs to be done in one go really. After a bit of scraping and sanding it looks like this (wet top to show the colour up ) And the back. Not yet jointed. Prior to this being done the plinth needed to be planed and squared off after which it looked like this. It was done using one of these. And one of these. Corners ae done with this. Like this....carefully. Take it to the line and finish off by hand using 120 grit and 180 grit. Check with the square fequently.Its very easy to bugger the whole thing up at this stage.If you round over one of the edges you will need to reduce the whole thing by the thickness of the round over or the corners will not be equal and it wont look so good. Take your time and check,check, check and double check with the square.
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Post by ChrisB on Nov 11, 2014 8:07:14 GMT
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