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Post by Rexton on Mar 25, 2017 16:52:42 GMT
I want to add a second tonearm to my Garrard 301 and I want to start using my DECCA carts. I have space for a 9" arm, maybe 10" at a push, any ideas?
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Post by ChrisB on Mar 25, 2017 17:05:03 GMT
Does it have to be a unipivot?
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Post by Rexton on Mar 26, 2017 9:13:20 GMT
No i dosent have to be unipivot but it seems accepted practice to plonk one a DECCA cart.
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Post by ChrisB on Mar 26, 2017 9:31:28 GMT
The obvious choice if it has to be a unipivot would be a Hadcock but also bear in mind that both the Zeta and the Notts Analogue arms were originally designed with the Deccas in mind. The GB Clamp was made by GB Tools, who made the Zeta. My first and most influential memory of a Decca was one mounted in a Rock/Excaliber in a demo given by Max Townsend when he was showing off the Beveridge speakers - still one of the best systems I have ever witnessed.
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Post by MartinT on Mar 26, 2017 9:54:05 GMT
The Decca can make a fantastic sound in the right arm, I've heard them on a few occasions sound immense. My tendency would be to use a heavy solid arm because of the vertical and noncompliant cantilever.
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Post by Rexton on Mar 26, 2017 18:16:14 GMT
Yep Hadcock seems to keep cropping up. The Nottingham has also been mentioned a few times.
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Post by daytona600 on Mar 27, 2017 7:05:41 GMT
used deccas SG/Jubliee/reference in jelcos ,roksan nima/pug unipovits & currently with a Vertere SG-1
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Post by ChrisB on Apr 17, 2017 21:35:19 GMT
I wonder, did you come to any conclusions on this one?
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Post by ant on Apr 18, 2017 18:52:44 GMT
What about one of these? :-) A project im working on
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Post by John on Apr 18, 2017 19:11:21 GMT
Good luck with that project. Be interesting to see how that develops
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Post by ant on May 6, 2017 20:18:32 GMT
Finished that unipivot I was playing with URL=http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/floydiepink/media/DSC_0499_zpsqxxodjo2.jpg.html] [/URL] Very good for a lash up This is the mk2, the original had some issues that the mk2 adresses. There will be one or two changes to this before its completely done. Its currently belting out some bowie
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Post by MartinT on May 6, 2017 22:42:05 GMT
What cartridge is it running, Ant?
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Post by ant on May 7, 2017 9:54:13 GMT
There is a shure m97xe in it at the moment, have allsorts of other bits and bobs to try in it
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Post by MartinT on May 7, 2017 10:59:12 GMT
I would have thought the Shure would match a unipivot rather well.
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Post by ant on May 7, 2017 11:45:59 GMT
I picked ideas from a couple of arms when designing it, and based some measurements on the shure.
It has fixed headshell holes rather than slots, pinched from the naim aro, adjustment for alignment if needed is done by rotating the base. The pillar hole is offset from the centre so rotating it alters the pivot to spindle distance, partly borrowed from the sme range.
The main dimensions are pinched from the rega rb250 so it would fit on the deck properly as that particular deck plinth was built around the 250.
I measured a couple of carts to see what the stylus to mounting bolt centre distance was, and the average was 10mm with very little variation so it should take most carts without needing any adjustment.
The headshell is fixed and is made of 3mm acrylic bonded directly to the tube. There is a walnut support block underneath that is there to add strength and mass at the cart end. The plastic idea was pinched from the roksan nima.
The tube is 8mm copper, the thin tube idea borrowed from the mayware formula 4.
The arm pillar is 12.7mm hardened steel with a cup machined into the end, and the pin is a hardened steel scribe. Tracking weight is set by the counterweight and azimuth by a secondary weight at 90 degrees to the tube on an outrigger. Bias is string and weight on another outrigger above the counterweight stub that is on the same plane as the pivot point so it doesnt affect azimuth by pulling above or below the pivot point.
The wiring loom is easily removable and is transfi litz. It exits out of the back of the bearing housing and is plugged into the base so that the wand is completely removable. There is then a din socket on the underside of the base that the output cable plugs into.
The pivot point is on the same plane as the stylus, there is no vertical offset so there is almost no variation in geometry when the arm traverses warps, warp wow is as low as it can possibly be, the geometry sees almost no change in use as there is no vertical offset between the stylus and pivot point.
The centre of gravity of the arm is only 7mm lower than the pivot point to provide as little osscilation as possible whil providing stability. If the c/g is too low this can introduce osscilation. Its a compromise, as too high and the arm wants to fall over.
The materials were chosen based on my ideas on resonance control which seems to have panned out well, as the wand assembly doesnt ring very much, if at all. A mixture of arcylic and walnut at the cart end so a non resonant headshell, relatively soft copper which seems to ring in a completely different way to the ubiquitous aluminium,and is effectively damped by the plastic and walnut headshell, and the walnut bearing housing whuch effectivelt damps the tube and bearing pin, and steel for the stub, damped by a combination of the walnut housing and heatshrink over the stub.
I also went out of my way to centeralize the main mass as close into the pivot point as I could to minimise the effects of that mass on the arm.
Had to really think about this one and what I wanted to achieve. Having clear design goals helps enormously, rather than flailing about in the dark
Was worth it though
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Post by MartinT on May 7, 2017 11:51:27 GMT
Nicely thought through. Thin walled copper sounds like a good choice for strength versus resonances.
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Post by ant on May 7, 2017 12:00:55 GMT
When I chose it I had a length of aluminium tube, a length of carbon fibre and the copper. The ally tube and the carbon fibre I didnt have much of, but the copper I had about a metre.
I did probably the most unscientific test possible, cut them to the same length then dropped them on a granite chopping block in the kitchen and listened to the noise. The copper made the lowest frequency noise, then the ally then the carbon fibre. The copper also shut up before the other 2 did
I picked the copper mainly because of that, and partially for practical reasons, I.e the copper is available locally from a plumbing shop and was 2 quid for a metre,but i would have to order the ally or carbon fibre
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