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Post by John on Jun 6, 2016 19:14:11 GMT
I been using active bass for a good few years now and really find this method very useful Recently I had a lot of changes to my speakers, whilst it was relative easy dialing in good bass, getting great bass took a bit more time. I think having the control to add a bit of bass lift low down in the bass has allowed the speakers to really shift air without effecting the rest of the frequency range in a negative way. To be honest my approach is more a partial active response, but I am not having to use any crossovers that to some degree must effect the signal I guess the main fear is that it seems complicated to go active and you will need two or more amplifiers as well as controlling the crossover to make it effective. It be interesting to hear other views on going active (good or bad)
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Post by MartinT on Jun 7, 2016 5:08:35 GMT
I guess it all comes down to experience, John. I have not heard many active systems and none has struck me as top calibre. The compromise is between having line level crossovers (as with yours) and speaker crossovers (as with most systems).
I've often thought that you could make a damned good active system by buying a bunch of Crown power amplifiers and using their in-built frequency band limiting to make a high performance but inexpensive active system. However, apart from hearing your experimentations, I have no idea of what the potential sound would be like. Your (previous) speakers are an advert to what can be achieved, though, and it's impressive.
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Post by John on Jun 7, 2016 5:28:12 GMT
I would say having the ability in my new system to add a bit of bass lift in the lower frequency to compensate for not having a traditional open baffle has paid off. I have a very simple Active system compared to the likes of Speedy Steve but even with mine it gives a lot of flexibility and SQ has gone up a lot since you heard it. Some of that due to better use of the active set up, some it new drivers and configuration.
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Post by MartinT on Jun 7, 2016 5:54:36 GMT
Yes, Steve's system is indeed a superb example of active done right. I look forward to hearing yours again, John.
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Post by John on Jun 7, 2016 6:52:35 GMT
I let you know when ready want to do a lot of work to the room first
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Post by ChrisB on Jun 7, 2016 7:06:14 GMT
When I was using my previous speakers I was given a very convincing demonstration of the benefits of active operation by a company who made bespoke pro gear. I was so convinced by it that it was to be my next move and we discussed them building a crossover unit for me. However, a change in circumstances meant that it never happened. It's still something that I may revisit sometime.
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Post by Eduardo Wobblechops on Jun 7, 2016 7:43:03 GMT
I'm still using an active system, and recently bought a miniDSP 4x10HD unit, which is a considerable step up from the 2x4 I was using previously. Worth noting there is a new 2x4HD unit just out, for those using these.
Still using my original OB's, though will be building the new ones when I get time, which is what I need the new dsp for, as it will be a 3 way.
One thing I didn't realise, the 2x4 unit only outputs a max of 0.9v RMS. The 4x10HD is configurable on both inputs and outputs, so lots of flexibility for matching the gain structure of your system. Much better sounding too to my ears.
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Post by MikeMusic on Jun 7, 2016 7:45:51 GMT
Respect - as they say I would not risk doing that. Helps being technically competent too. Way above my knowledge
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Post by dsjr on Jun 9, 2016 19:40:41 GMT
Respect - as they say I would not risk doing that. Helps being technically competent too. Way above my knowledge Your late-era Isobariks were designed to be active from he off you know, and were hobbled with a rather complex passive crossover fitted in the stand as an option. I suggested ages ago that you did this, as even with less blingy amps (three or four late-issue Klouts aren't silly money now (or any reasonable amps able to put out over a hundred Watts into 4 ohms, like the Quad 606 for example) and a Tunebox didn't used to be expensive on the used market), the 'Briks would have opened out in ways you couldn't possibly imagine until you'd heard them that way.
Anyone looking for cheapish non-ATC style active speakers with a bit of welly to them should see if Linn Espek's can be got cheaply. Better bass than the 5140's and rather sweet when active, even with humble LK140's with internal aktiv cards.
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Post by MartinT on Jun 9, 2016 19:56:47 GMT
I know you like Crown amps, Dave. Have you ever made an active system using them?
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Post by MikeMusic on Jun 9, 2016 20:43:53 GMT
Respect - as they say I would not risk doing that. Helps being technically competent too. Way above my knowledge Your late-era Isobariks were designed to be active from he off you know, and were hobbled with a rather complex passive crossover fitted in the stand as an option. I suggested ages ago that you did this, as even with less blingy amps (three or four late-issue Klouts aren't silly money now (or any reasonable amps able to put out over a hundred Watts into 4 ohms, like the Quad 606 for example) and a Tunebox didn't used to be expensive on the used market), the 'Briks would have opened out in ways you couldn't possibly imagine until you'd heard them that way.
Anyone looking for cheapish non-ATC style active speakers with a bit of welly to them should see if Linn Espek's can be got cheaply. Better bass than the 5140's and rather sweet when active, even with humble LK140's with internal aktiv cards.
That was the original reason for getting the late model Isos. They got so much better I forgot that and now trying out the Quadral Aurum Montans which deliver even more bass than Isos in passive form
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Post by dsjr on Jun 11, 2016 17:03:25 GMT
Nothing wrong with AMOUNT of late isobaric bass Mike. The midrange colouration in the passive models was the thing for me, and going active definitely helped them I found.
Rather than spend thousands of pounds on speakers nobody's heard of (outside a very few forum members),my suggestion is to be canny and try to find three LATE ISSUE Linn Klouts, which became good sounding, grain-free amps by the end and the aforementioned Linn active crossover (I don't think Linn ever did internal 'Brik cards for the Klout, but I could be wrong). For good bass, the forum-popular Klotz MC5000 or good used (a secret like with Linn) Linn's own 'Silver Interconnects' will work just fine and save you shedloads over high-profit dealer-supplied cables (trust me, KNOW these things).
If you are patient, I know you could get the above for not humungous outlay and should be able to pass it on at little or no loss if you didn't like it. Speaker wire need only be 4mm RS 56strand as we used to use (for best bass) and I think the music would be rather fine.
Of course, active ATC SCM50 ASL's would do it too, but you can't tweak these...
Forgive the independent suggestion here, but ACTIVE Isobariks are and have always been so much better, especially in the midrange than their passive siblings and you seem able to have a few thousand quid to spend on your stereo...
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Coops
Rank: Soloist
Posts: 21
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Post by Coops on Jul 30, 2016 8:53:26 GMT
If you want to experiment , look at the MiniDSP range of processors , they are inexpensive, you choose a 'plug in' from their site, you create the crossover on your computer ,you can listen to it in real time, when you are happy you download the correction to the hardware, that's it. Keith
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Post by John on Jul 30, 2016 15:09:25 GMT
Yes DSP range is very good If you willing to pay a bit more I suggest the Nadja that is very good but also is DIY
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ynwan
Rank: Trio
Posts: 185
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Post by ynwan on Jul 30, 2016 15:46:06 GMT
I run my three-way speakers active in the bass and passive to the mid and treble. I can't see myself going back to passive but neither is it likely that the rest of the speaker will be converted to active operation. I also use DSP in combination with the active drive in the bass and find it works very well indeed.
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